Everything You Need to Know About the World’s Most Sustainable and Ethical Silk
Table of Contents
- 1. What is Eri Silk Fabric?
- 2. The Ancient History of Eri Silk
- 3. How Eri Silk is Made: The 45-Day Journey
- 4. What Makes Eri Silk Special
- 5. Eri Silk vs Other Silks
- 6. Why Eri Silk is the Most Sustainable Silk
- 7. Eri Silk in Modern Fashion
- 8. How to Wash and Care for Eri Silk
- 9. Shopping Guide: What to Look For
- 10. Market Trends and Future Outlook
- 11. Frequently Asked Questions
- 12. Conclusion
What is Eri Silk Fabric?
Imagine a fabric so soft it feels like cotton, yet as warm as wool, with the natural beauty of silk. That’s Eri silk. But what makes it truly special isn’t just how it feels. It’s the story behind every thread.

Eri silk is a type of silk fabric produced by the domesticated silkworm Samia ricini, primarily in the northeastern states of India like Assam, Nagaland, and Meghalaya. Unlike regular silk production where silkworms are boiled alive inside their cocoons, Eri silk is harvested only after the moth naturally emerges from the cocoon. This simple difference has earned it the name “peace silk” or “ahimsa silk,” where ahimsa means non-violence in Sanskrit.
Eri silk is the only fully domesticated silk (besides mulberry silk) that allows the silkworm to complete its natural life cycle. The moth emerges from the cocoon, lives, and lays eggs for the next generation. This cruelty-free process makes it the preferred choice for people who want luxury without compromise.
Why It’s Called “Peace Silk”
The Eri silkworm creates an open-ended cocoon. When it’s ready to become a moth, it simply walks out of one end. There’s no need to kill the creature to harvest the silk. According to PETA, traditional silk production kills about 3,000 silkworms to make just one pound of silk. With Eri silk, that number is zero.
The name “Eri” comes from the Assamese word “era,” meaning castor. That’s because these silkworms feed on castor plant leaves, which grow abundantly in Northeast India. You might also hear it called Endi silk, Errandi silk, or Philosamia silk.
What Does Eri Silk Feel Like?
If you’ve never touched Eri silk, here’s what to expect. It has a matte finish (not shiny like regular silk) with a slightly woolly, cotton-like texture. It’s heavier and thicker than mulberry silk, which makes it perfect for cooler weather. The texture isn’t perfectly smooth because the fibers are spun (like cotton) rather than reeled in one continuous thread.
This spinning process happens because when the moth emerges from the cocoon, it breaks the silk thread. So unlike traditional silk that comes off the cocoon in one long strand, Eri silk must be spun from shorter fibers. This gives it that unique, slightly rustic texture that many people love.
What is the ERI?
The term “ERI” specifically refers to the Eri silkworm (Samia ricini or Philosamia ricini) and the silk it produces. In scientific classification, it’s also called the Ailanthus silk moth. The silkworm is native to the Assamese forests of northeastern India and has been domesticated for centuries. Unlike wild silks, Eri silkworms are raised in controlled environments (usually village homes) where they’re fed castor leaves.
The Ancient History of Eri Silk
Silk production in Assam goes back thousands of years. Ancient texts like the Ramayana describe the region as “the country of cocoon rearers.” Kautilya’s Arthashastra, written in the 3rd century BC, mentions the sophisticated silk clothing from Assam, calling it Suvarnakudyaka.
The Silk of the Poor
Eri silk has a funny nickname in Assam: “the silk of the poor.” But don’t let that fool you. It has nothing to do with quality. Historically, Eri silk was so common in rural villages that everyone could afford it, unlike the rare golden Muga silk reserved for royalty.
There’s an old Assamese proverb that perfectly captures its importance: “Dair pani, erir kani.” It means “while yogurt cools, Eri cloth warms.” This simple saying shows how Eri silk was part of everyday life in Assam, valued for keeping people warm during cold weather.
Which Region is Famous for Eri Silk?
Assam is the undisputed king of Eri silk production, accounting for 38.3% of India’s total output. Other major producing states include:
- Manipur (29.8%)
- Meghalaya (22.6%)
- Nagaland (6.8%)
- Bihar, Odisha, West Bengal, and Andhra Pradesh (smaller amounts)
The humid climate and abundance of castor plants in Northeast India make it the perfect place for Eri silk production. In 1974, Thailand imported Eri silkworms and began production there too, but India remains the largest producer.
Buddhist and Jain Connections
Peace silk has deep roots in religions that practice non-violence. Buddhist monks in India, Bhutan, Nepal, China, and Japan have preferred Eri silk for centuries because it doesn’t require killing any living creature. For Jains, who take non-violence so seriously they sweep the ground before walking to avoid stepping on insects, Eri silk is often the only acceptable silk.
Recent Recognition
In August 2024, the Northeastern Handicrafts and Handlooms Development Corporation (NEHHDC) received OEKO-TEX certification from Germany for its Eri silk. This certification guarantees that the textile is free from harmful substances and produced in environmentally friendly conditions. It’s a big deal because it puts Indian Eri silk on the global map as a certified sustainable fabric.
How Eri Silk is Made: The 45-Day Journey
Making Eri silk is a slow, careful process that has remained almost unchanged for centuries. Let’s walk through it step by step.

Days 1-30: The Growing Phase
The journey starts with tiny eggs. Once they hatch, the silkworm larvae begin eating. And eating. And eating. For about 30 days, they munch on castor leaves almost constantly. During this time, they change color from yellow to green-yellow as they grow. Village families keep these silkworms in baskets around their homes, covered with fresh castor leaves.
The biggest enemy? Ants. An entire batch of silkworms can be destroyed in an hour if ants get to them, so constant watching is needed.
Days 30-45: Cocoon Formation
When the silkworm reaches full size, it searches for a comfortable spot among the leaves to spin its cocoon. This takes about 15 days. The silkworm secretes a protein called fibroin, which hardens into silk threads. Unlike other silkworms that seal themselves completely inside, the Eri silkworm leaves one end of the cocoon open.
Day 45+: Natural Emergence
Here’s where peace silk differs from conventional silk. The pupa inside the cocoon transforms into a moth over 9-13 days. When it’s ready, the moth secretes an enzyme that softens the open end of the cocoon, allowing it to walk out naturally. No boiling. No killing. The moth lives, mates, and lays eggs for the next generation.
Processing: Degumming and Spinning
After the moths emerge, empty cocoons are collected. They’re boiled in soapy water for about an hour to remove sericin (a gummy coating). For 1 kilogram of cocoons, you need about 4 liters of water and half a cup of alkaline soap.
The cleaned cocoons are then stretched, flattened, and dried into what’s called “Eri silk hankies.” These must be spun into thread (like cotton or wool) because the silk strand is broken when the moth emerged. This spinning is usually done by hand using traditional spinning wheels, though some producers now use machines to increase production.
Dyeing with Nature
Traditional Eri silk dyeing uses plants from the surrounding forests. Teak leaves create beautiful blue-green-grey tones. Henna produces reds and oranges. Turmeric gives bright yellows. Since Eri silk is a protein fiber, it absorbs natural dyes beautifully.
Weaving
The final step is weaving the spun yarn into fabric using traditional looms. In Assam and Meghalaya, weavers use fly shuttle looms that can create fabric up to 52 inches wide. The entire process, from silkworm rearing to finished fabric, happens within village ecosystems, making it one of the smallest carbon footprints in the textile industry.
How Long Does Eri Silk Production Take?
The complete cycle from egg to wearable fabric takes approximately two to three months. The silkworm itself needs 45 days to grow and form its cocoon. Processing and spinning add another few weeks. Compared to industrial textile production, it’s slow. But this slow process is exactly what makes Eri silk special and sustainable.
Who is the Largest Producer of Eri Silk?
India is by far the largest producer of Eri silk globally, producing 1,530 tons in 2007-2008, which was 73% of total wild silk production. Within India, Assam leads production, followed by Manipur and Meghalaya. The production is mainly cottage industry-based, with rural women handling most of the work.
What Makes Eri Silk Special

Physical Properties
Eri silk has some unique characteristics that set it apart from other silks:
- Texture: Matte finish with a cotton or wool-like feel, slightly coarse but soft
- Weight: Heavier and denser than mulberry or tussar silk
- Color: Natural shades range from white to faint gold, with some variations in rust-red
- Fiber type: Staple fiber (short fibers that are spun) rather than continuous filament
- Structure: Dense and tightly woven when finished
Is Eri Silk Good?
Yes, Eri silk is excellent quality. While it’s different from glossy mulberry silk, it has its own advantages. It’s very strong and durable, with the texture improving over time. The more you wear it, the softer it gets. It blends well with other fibers like cotton and wool, making it versatile for different types of clothing.
Thermal Regulation: The All-Season Fabric
Here’s something amazing about Eri silk: it keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter. This isn’t magic. It’s science. The protein structure of silk naturally regulates body temperature. The slightly thicker, woolly texture of Eri silk makes this effect even more pronounced than regular silk.
This is why traditional Assamese people use Eri silk year-round. In summer, it wicks away moisture and provides a cooling effect. In winter, it traps warm air close to your body, like a natural insulator.
Is Eri Silk Breathable?
Absolutely. Eri silk is highly breathable, which is why it’s comfortable in warm weather despite being heavier than other silks. The natural protein fibers allow air to circulate while managing moisture. This breathability, combined with its thermal properties, makes it an all-weather fabric.
Strength and Durability
Eri silk is very strong and elastic. One of its best features is minimal pilling. While wool, cotton, and linen develop fuzzy pills over time, Eri silk maintains a smooth surface for decades with proper care. The long silk strands and tight weave create a durable fabric that resists wear and tear.
What are the Benefits of Eri Silk?
Top Benefits of Eri Silk:
- Cruelty-free: No silkworms are killed in production
- Hypoallergenic: Gentle on sensitive skin, doesn’t cause irritation
- Temperature regulating: Keeps you comfortable year-round
- Durable: Gets softer with age, minimal pilling
- Moisture absorbent: Wicks away sweat and moisture
- Biodegradable: Completely decomposes at end of life
- Sustainable: Lowest carbon footprint in textile industry
- Supports communities: Provides income for rural artisans
Skin-Friendly Properties
If you have sensitive skin, Eri silk might become your new best friend. Its natural properties make it gentle and non-irritating. It doesn’t cause the itchiness that some people experience with wool. This makes it perfect for children’s clothing, sleepwear, and anyone with skin sensitivities. Learn more about choosing the best fabrics for sensitive skin in our guide to soft fabrics.
What is Unique About Eri Silk?
The most unique thing about Eri silk is that it’s the only fully domesticated silk (besides Bombyx mori) that can be harvested without killing the silkworm. But beyond ethics, its texture is distinctive. The combination of silk’s luxury with cotton’s comfort and wool’s warmth creates something you can’t find anywhere else. It ages beautifully, becoming softer and more comfortable with each wash.
Eri Silk vs Other Silks: The Complete Comparison
Not all silk is created equal. Let’s compare Eri silk with other major silk types so you know exactly what makes each one special.
| Property | Eri Silk | Mulberry Silk | Tussar Silk | Muga Silk |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Source | Samia ricini (castor-fed) | Bombyx mori (mulberry-fed) | Antheraea mylitta (oak-fed) | Antheraea assamensis (som-fed) |
| Production | Peace silk (moth emerges) | Conventional (pupae killed) | Semi-wild/cultivated | Wild (limited to Assam) |
| Texture | Matte, cotton-like, woolly | Smooth, glossy, soft | Coarse, textured | Smooth, glossy |
| Color | White, off-white, rust-red | Pure white (dyeable) | Golden-tan, honey | Golden, light brown |
| Weight | Heavier | Lightweight | Medium | Medium |
| Luster | Matte/low sheen | High sheen | Moderate sheen | High golden sheen |
| Durability | Very strong | Very strong | Strong | Extremely strong |
| Price Range | Moderate ($$) | High ($$$) | Affordable ($) | Premium ($$$$) |
| Ethical Status | Cruelty-free ✓ | Not cruelty-free | Semi-ethical | Not cruelty-free |
| Sustainability | Highest ✓✓✓ | Moderate | Moderate-High | Moderate |
What is the Difference Between Mulberry Silk and Eri Silk?

The differences are pretty dramatic. Mulberry silk is smooth, glossy, and lightweight with that classic silk sheen. It’s made from silkworms that eat only mulberry leaves and are raised in carefully controlled environments. The silk comes off the cocoon in one continuous thread up to 900 meters long.
Eri silk, on the other hand, has a matte finish with a cotton or wool-like texture. It’s heavier and warmer. The biggest difference? Production method. Mulberry silk requires boiling the cocoons with the pupae inside to preserve the continuous thread. Eri silk waits for the moth to emerge, which breaks the thread, requiring it to be spun like cotton.
Price-wise, mulberry silk is more expensive due to its premium quality and high demand. Eri silk costs less, making it more accessible. Care requirements also differ. Mulberry silk needs very gentle handling, air drying, and low-temperature ironing. Eri silk is more forgiving and can even handle machine washing (undyed fabric).
What is the Difference Between Tussar Silk and Eri Silk?

Tussar (also spelled Tasar or Tussah) silk and Eri silk are both considered “wild silks,” but they’re quite different. Tussar silk has a natural golden-tan or honey color and a coarser texture than mulberry silk. It’s produced by wild silkworms that feed on oak and juniper leaves. The fibers are almost 9 times thicker than mulberry silk.
Eri silk is softer and more durable than tussar silk. While tussar has a streaky, uneven appearance, Eri silk has a more uniform texture. Tussar silk is usually the least expensive of all silks, while Eri silk sits in the moderate price range.
From an ethical standpoint, tussar silk production methods vary. Some producers let moths emerge, others don’t. Eri silk is consistently produced as peace silk.
What is the Difference Between Silk and Eri Silk?

When people say “silk” without specifying, they usually mean mulberry silk, which accounts for 90% of global silk production. The main differences between standard silk and Eri silk are:
- Production ethics: Standard silk kills silkworms; Eri silk doesn’t
- Fiber structure: Standard silk is continuous filament; Eri silk is staple fiber that must be spun
- Appearance: Standard silk is glossy; Eri silk is matte
- Feel: Standard silk is smooth and cool; Eri silk is textured and warm
- Use: Standard silk is for luxury clothing; Eri silk works for both clothing and home textiles
To learn more about different types of silk and their properties, check out this comprehensive guide to silk fabric.
Why Eri Silk is the Most Sustainable Silk

If you care about the environment (and let’s face it, we all should), Eri silk is the clear winner among silk types. Here’s why.
Zero Animal Casualties
The most obvious benefit: no silkworms die. Traditional silk production kills 3,000 silkworms for one pound of silk. For a single silk sari, that’s 10,000 silkworms. With Eri silk, every single moth gets to live its natural life cycle.
Is Eri Silk Cruelty Free?
Yes, Eri silk production is cruelty-free in the sense that the moth is allowed to emerge from the cocoon naturally. However, there’s an interesting nuance. In traditional Assamese villages, the pupae are often consumed as food before they transform into moths. This provides protein for rural communities and creates additional income for farmers.
Some peace silk producers allow all moths to emerge and fly away. Others remove the pupae for food before metamorphosis. If you want truly vegan Eri silk, look for brands that specifically state no pupae are consumed and all moths are released.
Minimal Water Footprint
Castor plants (what Eri silkworms eat) need much less water than mulberry trees. They’re drought-resistant and grow well with minimal irrigation. This makes Eri silk production far more water-efficient than mulberry silk farming.
No Chemicals or Pesticides
Small-scale Eri silk production in village homes avoids the high energy and water usage of commercial operations. No fertilizers or pesticides are used on the castor plants. Traditional dyeing uses natural plant-based pigments like turmeric, henna, pomegranate, and marigold. The degumming process uses mild, biodegradable soaps instead of harsh alkaline chemicals.
Smallest Carbon Footprint
The process of producing Eri silk yarns and fibers in villages has the smallest carbon footprint in the entire textile industry. Why? Everything happens within a village ecosystem. Silkworms are raised in homes. Processing uses traditional methods. Weaving happens on manual looms. There’s minimal transportation, no factory emissions, and no industrial energy consumption.
Circular Economy Model
Eri silk production is one of the few textiles that truly operates as a circular economy. All activities from rearing silkworms to weaving happen within one community. Waste is minimal. Cocoons become silk. Pupae become food. Silkworm droppings enrich the soil. Nothing goes to waste.
Biodiversity Protection
Wild silk varieties like Eri depend on diverse forest ecosystems. Growing castor plants creates incentives for communities to protect forests and preserve biodiversity. Compare this to industrial agriculture for conventional textiles, which often destroys natural habitats.
Supporting Rural Communities
Eri silk production provides income for thousands of rural artisans and farmers, mostly women. It’s made on a small scale as a cottage industry, supporting wide communities of silk farmers, spinners, and weavers. This decentralized production model keeps money in local villages rather than flowing to large corporations.
In 2022, the Indian Ministry of Textiles reported that Eri silk production increased by 15% due to government initiatives promoting organic sericulture under programs like “Silk Samagra.”
Eri Silk in Modern Fashion

Traditional Uses
For centuries, Eri silk has been used for traditional Assamese attire like Mekhela Chador (the traditional dress worn by Assamese women) and Gamosa (a traditional towel with cultural significance). The thermal properties made it perfect for winter shawls for both men and women. Traditional uses also included jackets, blankets, and bedspreads.
Contemporary Fashion Applications
Today, Eri silk is gaining serious attention in high-end sustainable fashion. Its soft texture, durability, and thermal regulation make it perfect for:
- Dresses and suits: The natural drape and elegant texture work beautifully for formal wear
- Accessories: Scarves, stoles, shawls, and wraps showcase the fabric’s versatility
- Children’s clothing: The hypoallergenic properties make it ideal for sensitive young skin
- Home textiles: Curtains, bed covers, cushion covers, wall hangings, and quilts
- Baby clothes: The soft texture and moisture-absorbent quality are perfect for baby dresses and bodysuits
Fashion Designers Using Eri Silk
Daniel Syiem (India)
Based in Shillong, Daniel Syiem and Janessaline Pyngrope founded Daniel Syiem’s Ethical Fashion House specifically to promote hand-woven Eri silk fabrics (called Ryndia locally) from Northeast India. They work directly with weavers to preserve traditional techniques.
Lucy Tammam (UK)
British designer Lucy Tammam is known for sustainable ethical supply chains and innovative cuts. She sources Eri silk from India and uses it extensively in her collections. She loves that Eri silk has a naturally open-ended cocoon, allowing the moth to emerge without breaking fibers.
Jyoti Reddy (India)
Designer Jyoti Reddy appreciates that Eri silk lacks the glossy shine of mulberry silk, making it versatile for both Indo-Western and traditional outfits. The matte texture gives garments a more contemporary, understated elegance.
Anna-Louise Meynell (Scotland/India)
Scottish textile designer Anna-Louise Meynell founded Anna Loom after spending seven years working for a high-end silk mill in India. She’s researching Eri silk handweaving in Meghalaya and works with communities to preserve artisanal heritage.
Sustainable Fashion Brands
Aiayu (Denmark)
This Danish brand works exclusively with peace silk or Eri silk sourced from Assam villages. They produce high-quality items including blouses, dresses, scarves, socks, pillowcases, and eye masks. Their commitment is to ethical production from start to finish.
Jyoti – Fair Works (Germany)
German brand Jyoti – Fair Works focuses on natural materials that are better for animals and the environment. Their collections feature Eri silk prominently.
Market Growth in Fashion
Eri silk is growing with the fastest CAGR in the silk market during the current forecast period. This growth is driven by rising use in men’s and women’s shawls and fashion designers increasingly using it in trendy creations. As consumers become more conscious about animal welfare and cruelty-free production, demand for Eri silk continues to climb.
Interested in sustainable fashion trends? Check out our guide on fast fashion vs slow fashion in 2025.
How to Wash and Care for Eri Silk
Good news: Eri silk is easier to care for than delicate mulberry silk. Here’s everything you need to know.
Is Eri Silk Easy to Care For?
Yes, compared to other silks, Eri silk is relatively low-maintenance. It’s naturally self-cleaning, requiring minimal washing. The durable structure means it can handle more than the extra-delicate mulberry silk. However, it still needs gentle care to maintain its beauty for years.
Understanding Eri Silk’s Self-Cleaning Properties
Eri silk naturally resists dirt and odors. You don’t need to wash it after every wear. For maintenance, steaming works great, or you can hand wash in cold water when needed.
Hand Washing (Recommended Method)
- Fill a clean basin or sink with cold water. Hot water will damage the fibers.
- Add soap nuts (traditional Assamese method) or a mild detergent specifically for silk or wool. About half a cup for a basin of water.
- Submerge the Eri silk item and gently swirl it around. Don’t scrub or twist. Let it soak for no more than 30 minutes.
- If there’s a food stain, gently rub that spot with your fingers. Don’t scrub aggressively.
- Rinse thoroughly with cold water until all soap is removed.
- Gently squeeze (don’t wring!) excess water out. You can place it between two clean towels and press to remove more water.
- Lay flat on a clean towel to air dry, away from direct sunlight.
Traditional Khasi Method
Khasi women in Meghalaya have been caring for Eri silk shawls for generations. They use soap nuts (shells from the Sapindus tree) to create a gentle, natural lather. These Eri silk shawls last for years and are often passed down to the next generation. The natural soap nuts are pH-balanced and environmentally safe.
Machine Washing Guidelines
You can machine-wash undyed Eri silk fabric. However, this is NOT recommended for dyed fabric, as colors may bleed.
If you must machine wash undyed Eri silk:
- Use delicate cycle only
- Cold water (below 30°C or 86°F)
- Place item in a mesh laundry bag to protect it
- Use mild detergent designed for silk or wool
- Skip the spin cycle (too harsh even for durable Eri silk)
Drying Methods
Best method: Lay flat on a clean cotton towel, gently press to remove excess water, reshape the garment, and let it air dry in a shaded area.
Never:
- Use a tumble dryer
- Wring or twist the fabric
- Hang when dripping wet (can stretch)
- Expose to direct heat sources or sunlight
Ironing and Wrinkle Removal
Eri silk can be ironed, which is good news if you hate wrinkles. Test your iron first on a small hidden area. Use medium heat or place a thin cotton cloth between the silk and your iron. Spray water on wrinkles before ironing. If your garment has a single layer, iron on the underside (reverse side) to protect the outer appearance.
Professional Cleaning
Eri silk can be dry cleaned or professionally wet cleaned. Many experts prefer wet cleaning as it’s gentler. You can also spot clean small stains instead of washing the entire garment.
What to Avoid
- Bleach or optical brighteners (will damage fibers)
- Fabric softeners (coat the fibers and reduce breathability)
- Harsh chemicals
- Hot water
- Prolonged soaking (30 minutes maximum)
- Direct sunlight during drying
- Plastic storage bags (fabric needs to breathe)
Color Considerations
Natural dyes adhere to Eri silk fibers in unique ways. Hand-dyed yarn creates different textures on handspun Eri silk. Color may bleed or tint the water. This is completely normal and natural, even if the item has been pre-washed. Don’t panic if you see some color in the water.
Storage Tips
- Store in breathable cotton bags, not plastic
- Keep in a cool, dry place
- Fold loosely, don’t compress
- Use cedar or lavender sachets to deter moths (even though Eri silk is less attractive to moths than wool)
Conditioning Treatment
Occasionally, you can condition Eri silk to restore its natural luster. Add half a mug of distilled white vinegar to a bucket of water (or a capful for a sink). Soak the silk for about an hour, then rinse thoroughly. This treatment restores drape and brings back the natural sheen.
For more detailed fabric care tips, check out our comprehensive silk care guide and use our silk care calculator for personalized instructions.
Shopping Guide: What to Look For
Identifying Authentic Eri Silk
With growing popularity comes imitations. Here’s how to spot real Eri silk:
Visual Inspection
- Matte, woolly texture (never glossy like mulberry silk)
- Natural color variations within the fabric
- Slightly irregular weave if handspun
- Cotton-like appearance
- No synthetic sheen
Touch Test
Real Eri silk feels soft but substantial. It has weight to it. The texture is consistent with a slight woolly feel. If it feels slippery-smooth like standard silk, it’s not Eri silk.
Burn Test (for verification)
If you’re unsure and the seller allows it, you can do a burn test on a tiny thread. Real silk chars slowly, smells like burning hair, and leaves crushable black ash. Synthetic fabrics melt, smell like burning plastic, and leave hard beads.
Price Expectations
Eri silk sits in the moderate price range, more expensive than tussar silk but less than mulberry or muga silk. Here’s what to expect:
Budget-Friendly ($-$$)
Simple scarves: $30-60
Basic stoles: $50-100
Small accessories: $20-50
Mid-Range ($$-$$$)
Designer shawls: $100-250
Dresses/tops: $150-400
Home textiles: $80-200
Premium ($$$-$$$$)
Handwoven sarees: $300-800
Designer collection: $400-1000+
Custom tailored: $500-1500
What is the Price of Eri Silk Yarn?
Eri silk yarn prices vary based on whether it’s handspun or machine-spun, the quality, and where you buy it. Generally, handspun Eri silk yarn costs more due to the labor involved. You can expect to pay $15-30 per 100 grams for quality handspun yarn, and $10-20 per 100 grams for machine-spun yarn. Naturally dyed yarn commands higher prices than chemically dyed.
Where to Buy
Direct from Source (India)
- Muezart – Meghalaya specialists working directly with village weavers
- Dzukou – Handwoven Assam Eri silk with natural dyes
- We are KAL – Social enterprise supporting artisans
- Local Assam cooperatives
International Brands
- Aiayu (Denmark) – Peace silk specialists
- Lucy Tammam (UK) – Ethical fashion designer
- Daniel Syiem’s Ethical Fashion House (Shillong)
- Anna Loom (Scotland/India)
What to Look For
- Open weave texture – Characteristic of handspun Eri silk
- Natural color variations – From white to rust-red
- Weight – Should be heavier than mulberry silk
- Matte finish – Not glossy
- Slight irregularities – Sign of hand craftsmanship
Certifications to Look For
OEKO-TEX certification guarantees textiles are environmentally friendly and tested for harmful substances. In 2024, NEHHDC became the first Indian Eri silk producer to receive this certification. Look for this logo when shopping.
Other certifications that indicate quality and ethical production:
- GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)
- Fair Trade certification
- Vegan certification (if all moths are released)
Red Flags to Avoid
- Prices suspiciously low (likely synthetic blend)
- Perfect uniformity (machine-made, not handcrafted)
- High glossy sheen (not Eri silk)
- No origin information provided
- Seller can’t explain the production method
- No return policy
First-Time Buyer Recommendations
If you’re new to Eri silk, start small:
- A scarf or stole ($50-100) – Great way to test the texture
- Pillowcase ($40-80) – Experience the comfort while sleeping
- Pajama set ($80-150) – Feel how it regulates temperature
Use our silk type selector quiz to see which silk works best for your needs.
Questions to Ask Sellers
- Where was this produced? (Look for Assam, Meghalaya, Manipur)
- Is the moth allowed to emerge naturally?
- Is it hand-spun or machine-spun?
- What dyes were used (natural or chemical)?
- Can you provide certification?
- What are the care requirements?
- What’s your return policy?
Market Trends and Future Outlook
Current Market Size
The global silk market reached $20 billion in 2024 and is expected to hit $35.6 billion by 2033, growing at 6.62% annually according to IMARC Group research. Within this larger market, Eri silk is the rising star.
The Eri silk market specifically is projected to grow from $0.95 billion in 2023 to $1.65 billion by 2032, with a compound annual growth rate of 6.1%. More importantly, Eri silk is growing faster than any other silk type, with a projected CAGR of 7.2% over the next decade.
Why the Growth?
Ethical Fashion Movement
Eco-conscious consumers in North America and Europe are increasingly choosing ethically produced textiles. This shift is boosting Eri silk’s popularity significantly.
Vegan Fashion Trend
The demand for animal-free products has led to a surge in vegan fashion. Eri silk bridges the gap for people who want silk’s luxury without harming animals.
Sustainable Fashion Focus
Unlike traditional linear fashion (buy, wear, discard), circular fashion focuses on longevity and sustainability. Eri silk fits perfectly into this model with its biodegradable properties and minimal environmental impact.
Regional Markets
India dominates Eri silk production, making up 73% of total wild silk output. But consumption is growing globally:
- North America: Fastest-growing market with 6.5% CAGR, driven by sustainable luxury demand
- Europe: Strong growth in UK (9.2% CAGR) due to sustainability trends
- Asia-Pacific: Continues to dominate production and consumption
Recent Industry Developments
- August 2024: NEHHDC received OEKO-TEX certification for Eri silk
- 2022: Eri silk production increased 15% due to Indian government initiatives
- Ongoing: Development of machine-spun Eri silk to increase production capacity
- New: Eri silk blends with bamboo, cotton, and muga gaining popularity
Application Beyond Fashion
Eri silk is expanding beyond traditional textiles into:
- Medical applications (surgical sutures, wound dressings)
- Cosmetics and skincare products
- Technical textiles
- Home furnishings and bedding
Challenges and Opportunities
Challenges
- Limited production scale compared to mulberry silk
- Hand-spinning creates production bottlenecks
- Market awareness still growing
- Competition from conventional silk on price
- Inconsistent quality in artisan production
Opportunities
- Growing sustainable fashion market
- Expansion into Western luxury markets
- Development of Eri silk blends
- New applications in medical and technical textiles
- E-commerce making it accessible worldwide
Future Predictions (2025-2035)
Short-term (2025-2030):
- Mainstream adoption in ethical fashion brands
- Increased mechanization while preserving traditions
- Expansion into European and North American luxury markets
- Development of new Eri silk blends
Long-term (2030-2035):
- Global recognition as premium sustainable fabric
- Technology-enabled quality standardization
- Major export growth from Northeast India
- New medical and technical applications
- Potential carbon credit programs for producers
Frequently Asked Questions
Eri silk is a type of peace silk produced by domesticated silkworms (Samia ricini) that feed on castor leaves. It’s primarily produced in northeastern India. The silk is harvested after the moth naturally emerges from the cocoon, making it cruelty-free. It has a matte, cotton-like texture and is heavier than regular silk.
Yes, Eri silk is excellent quality. It’s very strong, durable, and gets softer with age. While different from glossy mulberry silk, it has unique advantages including thermal regulation (cool in summer, warm in winter), hypoallergenic properties, and minimal pilling. The ethical production method adds to its appeal.
Yes, Eri silk production is cruelty-free. The moth is allowed to emerge naturally from the cocoon, which is why it’s called peace silk or ahimsa silk. However, in some traditional production, pupae are consumed as food before transformation. For completely vegan Eri silk, look for brands that release all moths.
Hand wash Eri silk in cold water with mild detergent or soap nuts. Soak for no more than 30 minutes, rinse thoroughly, gently squeeze out water (don’t wring), and lay flat to dry away from direct sunlight. Undyed Eri silk can be machine washed on delicate cycle, but dyed fabric should only be hand washed.
Eri silk has a matte, woolly texture similar to cotton. It’s heavier and thicker than regular silk with a substantial feel. The texture is slightly irregular (especially if handspun), which gives it character. It’s soft but not slippery-smooth like mulberry silk. The more you wear it, the softer it becomes.
Assam in northeastern India is most famous for Eri silk production, accounting for 38.3% of India’s total output. Other major producing regions include Manipur (29.8%), Meghalaya (22.6%), and Nagaland (6.8%). India produces 73% of the world’s wild silk, making it the undisputed leader.
Mulberry silk is smooth, glossy, and lightweight, produced by killing silkworms in their cocoons. Eri silk is matte, heavier, with a cotton-like texture, and allows moths to emerge naturally. Mulberry silk is more expensive and needs careful handling. Eri silk is more affordable and easier to care for. Both are durable, but serve different purposes.
Eri silk is also known as peace silk, ahimsa silk (meaning non-violent silk), Endi silk, Errandi silk, or Philosamia silk. All these names refer to the same fabric produced by the Samia ricini silkworm.
Yes, Eri silk takes dye beautifully. As a protein fiber, it absorbs both natural and synthetic dyes very well. Traditional production uses natural plant-based dyes like turmeric, henna, pomegranate, and marigold. The results are vibrant with natural plant dyes, though colors may appear slightly more muted than on mulberry silk.
Yes, Eri silk is highly breathable. The natural protein fibers allow air circulation while managing moisture. This breathability, combined with thermal regulating properties, makes it comfortable in both warm and cool weather. It wicks away moisture in summer and provides insulation in winter.
The complete cycle from egg to cocoon takes approximately 45 days from egg to cocoon, plus additional time for processing. The silkworm grows for 30 days eating castor leaves, then spins its cocoon over 15 days. The moth emerges after 9-13 days. Processing, spinning, and weaving add several more weeks to the timeline.
India is the largest producer of Eri silk globally, producing 1,530 tons in 2007-2008, which was 73% of total wild silk production. Within India, Assam leads production, followed by Manipur and Meghalaya. Most production is cottage industry-based, with rural women handling the work.
Tussar silk has a natural golden-tan color, coarser texture, and comes from wild silkworms that eat oak leaves. Eri silk is softer, more durable, white or rust-red in color, and comes from domesticated silkworms that eat castor leaves. Tussar is the least expensive silk, while Eri sits in the moderate price range. Eri is consistently produced as peace silk, while tussar methods vary.
Yes, compared to delicate mulberry silk, Eri silk is relatively easy to care for. It’s naturally self-cleaning and requires minimal washing. It can handle hand washing well, and undyed fabric can even be machine washed. It’s more forgiving than other silks and gets better with age.
This question applies to mulberry silk, not Eri silk. Eri silk isn’t measured in momme weight because it’s a spun fabric with different properties. For mulberry silk, 25 momme is heavier and more durable than 22 momme, but 22 momme is lighter and more breathable. The choice depends on your use case.
Eri silk is traditionally dyed using natural plant-based pigments. Common natural dyes include turmeric (yellow), henna (orange-red), teak leaves (blue-grey-green), pomegranate (yellow-brown), and marigold (golden yellow). The silk is immersed in the dye bath, often with natural mordants to fix the color. Modern production may also use chemical dyes, but traditional methods remain popular for their eco-friendly approach.
Eri silk production involves: 1) Raising Samia ricini silkworms on castor leaves for 30 days, 2) Allowing them to spin cocoons over 15 days, 3) Letting moths emerge naturally, 4) Collecting empty cocoons, 5) Boiling cocoons in soapy water to remove sericin (degumming), 6) Flattening and drying cocoons into “hankies,” 7) Hand-spinning or machine-spinning fibers into yarn, 8) Dyeing the yarn (optional), and 9) Weaving on traditional looms. The entire process takes 2-3 months from egg to finished fabric.
Conclusion
Eri silk isn’t just another fabric. It’s proof that we can have luxury without cruelty, beauty without environmental destruction, and quality without exploiting workers. As we stand at a crossroads in fashion history, with consumers demanding transparency and sustainability, Eri silk offers a path forward.
The numbers tell a compelling story. The Eri silk market is growing faster than any other silk type, projected to reach $1.65 billion by 2032 with a 7.2% annual growth rate. This isn’t just market speculation. It’s consumers voting with their wallets for ethical production.
Key Takeaways
- Ethical Production: Eri silk allows moths to complete their natural life cycle. No silkworms die for your clothing. It’s the only fully cruelty-free silk besides some specialty productions.
- Superior Sustainability: With the smallest carbon footprint in the textile industry, no pesticides or fertilizers, and a circular economy production model, Eri silk sets the gold standard for sustainable fashion.
- Unique Properties: The matte, cotton-like texture combined with silk’s luxury creates something special. It regulates temperature, resists pilling, is hypoallergenic, and gets softer with age. Perfect for year-round wear.
- Fair Trade Impact: Buying Eri silk directly supports rural communities in Northeast India, providing income for thousands of artisan women and their families. It preserves traditional skills while creating economic opportunity.
- Versatile Applications: From high-end fashion to children’s clothing to home textiles, Eri silk adapts beautifully. Its durability and ease of care make it practical for daily use, not just special occasions.
- Easy Care: Unlike delicate mulberry silk, Eri silk can handle hand washing and even machine washing (undyed fabric). It’s naturally self-cleaning and low-maintenance.
- Growing Accessibility: While still a specialty fabric, Eri silk is becoming more available through e-commerce and ethical fashion brands worldwide. Prices are moderate, making it accessible beyond luxury markets.
Making the Choice
If you’re considering Eri silk, start with one piece. A scarf, a pillowcase, or a simple dress. Feel the texture. Experience how it regulates your body temperature. Wash it and watch it get softer. You’ll understand why people who discover Eri silk become lifelong fans.
The choice between conventional silk and Eri silk isn’t just about personal preference. It’s about the kind of world we want to create. Every purchase is a vote. When you choose Eri silk, you’re voting for:
- Compassion over convenience
- Quality over quantity
- Community over corporation
- Long-term thinking over short-term gain
Looking Forward
The future of Eri silk looks bright. As certification programs expand, quality improves, and awareness grows, we’re likely to see Eri silk become a mainstream choice for conscious consumers. Designer collaborations are introducing it to new markets. Technology is helping standardize quality while preserving traditional methods. Government programs in India are supporting increased production.
But the real power lies with consumers. As more people discover Eri silk and demand ethical alternatives, the entire fashion industry shifts. What started in small villages in Assam is now influencing global fashion trends.
Your Next Step
Ready to experience Eri silk yourself? Use our silk type selector quiz to find the perfect Eri silk product for your needs. Check out our silk care calculator for personalized care instructions based on your specific item.
Remember, every great change starts with a single step. Maybe your step is wrapping yourself in a beautiful Eri silk shawl that kept no creature from flying. Maybe it’s choosing a pillowcase that supports rural artisans half a world away. Maybe it’s simply spreading the word about peace silk.
Whatever your step, know this: when you choose Eri silk, you’re not just buying fabric. You’re supporting a movement toward a more compassionate, sustainable, and beautiful world.
The choice is silk. The conscience is clear. The future is Eri.


