Double Cloth Wool Fabric: The Complete Guide to This Luxury Material

What is Double Cloth Wool Fabric?

Double cloth wool fabric is a unique textile construction where two separate layers of fabric are woven or connected together to create a single, thicker material. Think of it as two pieces of fabric joined at specific points, creating an air pocket between the layers that provides exceptional warmth without excessive weight.

Unlike regular wool fabric, which has just one layer, double cloth gives you two finished surfaces. This makes it perfect for creating reversible garments, self-lined coats, and structured outerwear that looks beautiful inside and out.

The magic of double cloth lies in its construction. When you hold it up and look at the edge, you can actually see where the two layers meet. Some double cloths are woven so that you can gently pull the layers apart, while others are more tightly bound together throughout.

This fabric has been around for centuries, but it’s experiencing a comeback in modern fashion. Why? Because people are looking for quality pieces that last, and double cloth delivers on that promise. It’s warmer than single-layer wool, more structured, and often more durable.

How Double Cloth is Made

The construction of double cloth wool is what makes it special. The weaving process uses multiple sets of threads:

• Two warp sets (the vertical threads on the loom)
• Two or three weft sets (the horizontal threads)
• Binding points where the layers connect

During weaving, the loom creates two separate fabrics simultaneously. At regular intervals, a binding thread weaves through both layers, connecting them. This creates small pockets of air between the layers, which trap warmth and give the fabric its insulating properties.

The spacing of these binding points matters. Too few, and the layers might separate too easily. Too many, and you lose the air pockets that make the fabric special. Skilled weavers know exactly how to balance this.

Double Cloth vs Double Face vs Pocket Weave: Clearing Up the Confusion

There’s a lot of confusion about these terms, so let’s break it down clearly:

The easiest way to tell them apart? Look at the edge of the fabric. If you can see two distinct layers and potentially separate them a bit, you’re looking at true double cloth. If it’s seamlessly one piece with no separation possible, it’s double face.

A Rich History: From Ancient Times to Modern Couture

Double cloth weaving isn’t new. In fact, it’s one of the oldest complex weaving techniques we know about.

Today, double cloth wool represents a connection to that long history of craftsmanship. When you wear a double cloth coat, you’re wearing a piece of textile history that spans more than 1,300 years.

The evolution of double cloth weaving from ancient textiles to modern fashion

Double Cloth vs Other Wool Fabrics

Understanding how double cloth compares to other wool coating options helps you choose the right fabric for your project. Here’s how it stacks up:

Double cloth wool compared with other common wool fabrics

When to Choose Double Cloth Over Other Options

Pick double cloth when you want:

• A reversible garment – The two finished sides make this possible
• Maximum warmth without bulk – The air pocket insulates better than a single-layer fabric of the same weight
• A self-lined look – No need for separate lining fabric
• Structure that holds its shape – Perfect for tailored coats that need to keep their silhouette
• A luxury investment piece – Double cloth coats can last 20+ years with proper care

Choose melton wool instead if you need something even heavier and don’t care about reversibility. Go with boiled wool if you want a more casual, felted texture. And pick wool crepe when you need drape over structure.

Why Double Cloth Wool is a Sustainable Choice

In a world focused on fast fashion, double cloth wool stands out as a genuinely sustainable option. Here’s why:

Why double cloth wool is a sustainable and eco-friendly fabric

Natural and Renewable

Wool comes from sheep, which regrow their fleece every year. Unlike synthetic fabrics made from petroleum, wool is a renewable resource. When sheep are raised responsibly, they’re part of a natural cycle that can actually benefit the land through managed grazing.

Biodegradable

When a double cloth wool garment finally reaches the end of its very long life, it will break down naturally. Wool is a protein fiber, similar to human hair. When it biodegrades, it returns nutrients to the soil instead of sitting in a landfill for centuries like polyester or nylon.

According to the International Wool Textile Organisation, wool biodegrades in both land and marine environments, meaning it doesn’t contribute to the growing microplastic pollution problem that synthetic fabrics cause.

Built to Last

Here’s where double cloth really shines for sustainability: it lasts. A well-made double cloth coat can easily serve you for 20 years or more. Compare that to a cheap polyester coat that might last two or three seasons at best.

Less Frequent Washing

Wool has natural antimicrobial properties. This means your double cloth coat won’t need washing nearly as often as synthetic fabrics. Most people spot-clean their wool coats and only do a full wash once or twice per season, if that. This saves water, energy, and detergent over the garment’s lifetime.

Look for Responsible Certifications

When buying double cloth wool, look for these sustainability markers:

• Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) – Ensures animal welfare and land management practices
• Organic Wool – No pesticides on pastureland, no chemical treatments on sheep
• Traceable Origins – Some mills can trace their wool back to specific farms

The Woolmark Company provides detailed information about wool’s environmental benefits, including its carbon cycle participation and recyclability.

The Carbon Story

Wool is made from atmospheric carbon. Sheep eat grass, which captures CO2 from the air through photosynthesis. This carbon becomes part of the wool fiber. When the wool eventually biodegrades, it releases those nutrients back into the soil, completing a natural cycle.

Synthetic fibers, on the other hand, are made from fossil fuels – carbon that’s been locked underground for millions of years. Making synthetic fabric releases that ancient carbon into the atmosphere.

What Makes High-Quality Double Cloth

Not all double cloth is created equal. Here’s what to look for when you’re shopping for quality:

Key factors that define high quality double cloth wool

Fiber Quality

The type of wool used makes a huge difference:

• Merino wool – Soft, fine fibers, comfortable against skin
• Cashmere – Luxury fiber, extremely soft and warm
• Vicuña – Rarest and most expensive, incredibly soft
• Alpaca – Warmer than sheep’s wool, hypoallergenic
• Virgin wool – New wool, never processed before, higher quality than recycled

Higher-quality fibers create softer, more durable double cloth. They also tend to age better, developing a beautiful patina rather than looking worn out.

Weave Quality

Check these aspects:

• Even layers – Both sides should have consistent thickness
• Secure binding – The layers should stay connected, but not be stiff
• Smooth surface – Unless it’s intentionally textured, the fabric should be even
• Weight distribution – Should feel balanced, not heavier in some areas

Hand Feel and Drape

Quality double cloth should feel:

• Substantial but not stiff – It should have body without being boardlike
• Smooth – High-quality wool feels soft to touch
• Resilient – When you scrunch it, it should spring back

Origin Matters

Some regions are known for exceptional double cloth:

• Italy – Particularly mills like Loro Piana and Colombo for cashmere double cloth
• Scotland – Traditional expertise in wool weaving, including mills like Abraham Moon
• England – Historic wool production with attention to detail

If you’re looking for quality wool and cashmere options, reputable suppliers can help guide you toward the best choices for your needs.

Price as an Indicator

Let’s be honest: quality double cloth isn’t cheap. Here’s a rough guide:

• $30-50 per yard – Entry-level, likely wool blend
• $50-100 per yard – Good quality, 100% wool
• $100-200 per yard – High quality, fine wool like merino
• $200+ per yard – Luxury fibers like cashmere or vicuña

Remember, you typically need 2.5-4 yards for a coat, so factor that into your budget.

Practical Uses and Applications

Double cloth wool’s unique properties make it perfect for specific applications. Let’s look at where it really shines:

Outerwear

Double cloth wool winter coat with structured tailoring

This is where double cloth truly excels:

• Winter coats – The insulating air pocket keeps you warm without excessive bulk
• Reversible jackets – Two finished sides mean you get two looks in one garment
• Capes and ponchos – The structure helps these pieces hold their shape
• Tailored blazers – Creates crisp lines that stay put

The self-lining nature of double cloth means you can create an unlined coat that still looks finished and professional inside. This was a signature technique of designer Ralph Rucci, who we’ll talk more about later.

Accessories

Double cloth works beautifully for:

• Scarves – Two sides mean you can play with color and texture
• Wraps and shawls – The weight drapes nicely while providing warmth
• Bags – Structure without needing interfacing
• Hats – Warm and windproof

Home Décor

Double cloth wool used as a warm and luxurious throw

Don’t overlook double cloth for interior projects:

• Upholstery – Durable and substantial
• Throw blankets – Warm and reversible
• Pillows – Two-sided design possibilities
• Window treatments – Insulating properties help with temperature control

What Not to Make with Double Cloth

Double cloth isn’t ideal for everything:

• Flowing dresses – Too structured, doesn’t drape well enough
• Gathered skirts – The bulk makes gathering difficult
• Lightweight summer clothing – It’s warm, meant for cold weather
• Baby clothes – Too heavy and structured for little ones

For projects that need drape, consider wool crepe instead. For summer weight, look at wool voile.

Complete Care Instructions

Double cloth wool needs proper care to last for decades. Here’s everything you need to know:

Care and maintenance of double cloth wool fabric

Daily Maintenance

The best care is preventive:

• Brush after each wear – Use a soft garment brush to remove surface dirt and lint
• Air out regularly – Hang in a well-ventilated area, away from direct heat
• Store properly – Use wide, padded hangers to prevent shoulder bumps
• Give it rest – Don’t wear the same coat every single day; rotation helps it last longer

Spot Cleaning

For small stains, spot cleaning is your friend:

Hand Washing

When your double cloth coat needs a full clean, hand washing is the safest method:

Machine Washing (When Possible)

Some double cloth can be machine washed, but check the care label first. If it says “dry clean only,” don’t risk it.

If machine washing is approved:

• Turn the garment inside out
• Use a mesh laundry bag
• Select wool or delicate cycle
• Use cold water only
• Add wool-safe detergent
• Skip the spin cycle if possible (or use lowest speed)
• Remove promptly and dry flat

Dry Cleaning

Professional dry cleaning is often the safest option for valuable double cloth coats. Look for cleaners who specialize in wool and luxury fabrics.

How often? Most double cloth coats only need dry cleaning once or twice per season, unless they get heavily soiled. Over-cleaning can actually wear out the fabric faster.

Dealing with Pilling

Pills (those little balls of fiber) can happen with any wool. To remove them:

• Use a sweater stone or fabric comb
• Work gently in one direction
• For stubborn pills, carefully use a sweater shaver
• Never use scissors (too easy to cut the fabric)

Moth Prevention

Moths love wool. Protect your investment:

• Clean before storage – Moths are attracted to body oils and food stains
• Use cedar – Cedar blocks or hangers help repel moths
• Add lavender sachets – Natural moth deterrent
• Store in breathable bags – Never plastic, which can trap moisture
• Check regularly – Air out stored garments a few times per year

Steaming vs Ironing

Steaming is better for double cloth wool:

• Hang the garment
• Use a handheld steamer
• Work from top to bottom
• Don’t touch the steamer to the fabric
• Let the steam do the work

If you must iron:

• Use the wool setting (low heat)
• Always use a pressing cloth
• Never iron directly on the fabric
• Use a lifting motion, don’t slide the iron
• Work on the wrong side when possible

For more detailed wool care guidance, check out our complete wool care guide.

Working with Double Cloth: Tips for Sewers

Sewing with double cloth wool requires some special techniques. Here’s what you need to know:

Sewing and working with double cloth wool fabric

Pattern Selection

Choose patterns wisely:

• Simple silhouettes work best – Too many details can look bulky
• Minimal seams – Less bulk to manage
• Straight or slightly flared – Avoid heavily gathered designs
• Consider reversibility – If using both sides, plan for visible seams

Cutting

Cutting double cloth needs care:

• Use sharp scissors – Dull blades will pull the layers apart
• Cut both layers together – Don’t separate them
• Use weights, not pins – Pins can leave permanent holes
• Cut in single layers – Don’t fold the fabric if possible

Seaming Techniques

Seams can get bulky with double cloth. Here are solutions:

• Grade your seams – Trim each layer to a different width to reduce bulk
• Press seams open – Rather than to one side
• Consider separating layers – For some construction methods, you can work with layers separately
• Use a walking foot – Helps feed the thick fabric evenly

Needles and Thread

• Needle size: 90/14 or 100/16 for coating weight
• Needle type: Universal or sharp
• Thread: All-purpose polyester or quality cotton
• Stitch length: Slightly longer than normal, around 3.0mm

Special Techniques for Reversible Garments

If you’re making a reversible coat:

• All seams must look good on both sides
• Use Hong Kong finish or binding for seam allowances
• Consider hand-sewn hems for invisible finish
• Buttonholes need special planning (or use toggles/frogs)

Pressing

Proper pressing is key:

• Use a press cloth always
• Steam generously
• Use a clapper to set the press
• Don’t slide the iron; lift and press
• Let fabric cool completely before moving

How to Buy Double Cloth Wool

Ready to purchase? Here’s how to find quality double cloth:

Tips for buying high quality double cloth wool

Where to Shop

• Specialty fabric stores – Better selection and knowledgeable staff
• Online fabric retailers – Mood Fabrics, B&J Fabrics, Fabric House
• Direct from mills – Some mills sell to consumers
• Fabric shows and markets – Good for seeing/touching in person

Questions to Ask

Before buying, ask:

• Is this true double cloth or double face?
• What fiber content? (100% wool, cashmere blend, etc.)
• What’s the weight? (Good for coats is usually 10-16 oz per yard)
• Has it been pre-shrunk?
• What are the care requirements?
• What’s the country of origin?
• Can I see/touch a sample?

Red Flags

Watch out for:

• Price seems too good – Quality double cloth isn’t cheap
• Seller can’t explain construction – They should know their products
• No fiber content listed – You need to know what you’re buying
• Can’t get a swatch – Reputable sellers provide samples
• Fabric feels stiff or rough – Quality wool should feel nice

How Much to Buy

Typical yardage for common projects:

• Knee-length coat: 2.5-3 yards
• Full-length coat: 3.5-4 yards
• Jacket: 2-2.5 yards
• Cape: 2-3 yards depending on fullness
• Scarf: 0.5-1 yard

Always buy a bit extra for pattern matching, mistakes, or future repairs.

Seasonal Availability

Double cloth wool is seasonal:

• Best selection: Late summer through fall (August-October)
• Sales: Late winter/early spring (February-March)
• Limited stock: Summer months

Plan your projects around fabric availability if possible.

Designer Spotlight: Ralph Rucci and Double Cloth Couture

When talking about double cloth in modern fashion, one name stands out: Ralph Rucci.

Who is Ralph Rucci?

Ralph Rucci is an American fashion designer who became the first American in over 60 years to be invited to show at Paris Haute Couture Week in 2002. This invitation, from the prestigious Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, recognized him as one of only two Americans (the other being Mainbocher in the 1930s) to achieve this honor.

His Love for Double Cloth

Rucci became famous for his use of double-faced cashmere and wool. He created coats and jackets that were completely reversible, with every seam and detail as beautiful inside as outside.

His signature technique, which he called “suspensions,” involved cutting cashmere into individual pieces, hand-finishing the edges, and then connecting them with special hand-stitched links he called “worms” (modified French knots). This created see-through sections in otherwise solid double cloth garments.

“I’ve never compromised a collection in my life, not one.” – Ralph Rucci

Why His Work Matters

Rucci showed the fashion world what was possible with double cloth:

• Technical mastery – His garments demonstrated the highest level of craftsmanship
• Luxury without logos – The quality of the fabric and construction spoke for itself
• Timeless design – His pieces from the 1990s still look modern today
• Made in New York – He kept production local when others outsourced

Contemporary Designers Using Double Cloth

While Rucci brought double cloth to haute couture prominence, other designers have embraced it too:

• The Row (by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen) often features double cloth coats
• Max Mara is known for quality double cloth winter coats
• Jil Sander has used double cloth for minimalist, architectural pieces

What We Can Learn

Rucci’s work teaches us that:

• Quality materials deserve quality construction
• The inside of a garment matters as much as the outside
• True luxury is about craftsmanship, not branding
• Classic techniques remain relevant in modern fashion

Frequently Asked Questions