Wool Broadcloth Fabric: The Complete Guide to History, Uses, and Care

Discover everything about this historic, weather-resistant fabric from medieval England to modern tailoring

If you’ve ever wondered what fabric kept medieval Europeans warm and dry, or what made those crisp military uniforms so durable, the answer is wool broadcloth. This historic fabric has been around since the 11th century, and it’s still used today for everything from tailored suits to historical reenactments.

While most articles focus on cotton broadcloth, this guide digs deep into the wool version. We’ll cover what makes it unique, how it’s made, and whether it’s the right choice for your next project. You already know about wool fabric in general, but wool broadcloth has some special tricks up its sleeve that set it apart from other wool suiting fabrics.

What is Wool Broadcloth Fabric?

Wool broadcloth is a dense, plain-weave fabric that’s been heavily fulled (also called milled) to create an exceptionally tight texture. Here’s what makes it different from other wool fabrics: it’s woven 50-75% wider than its final width, then shrunk down through a process involving hot soapy water and mechanical action.

This fulling process is what gives wool broadcloth its signature qualities. The individual wool fibers bind together during fulling, creating what textile experts call a “blind-face cloth.” This means you can’t see the individual yarns on the surface. The result? A smooth, dense fabric with a slightly stiff drape that’s incredibly weather-resistant and durable.

What is Broadcloth Fabric in the UK and US?

Here’s where it gets interesting. When someone in the UK says “broadcloth,” they’re usually talking about the traditional wool fabric we’re discussing here. But in the US since the 1920s, “broadcloth” often refers to a cotton or cotton-blend fabric with a subtle rib weave, commonly used for dress shirts.

This guide focuses on the original wool broadcloth. If you’re looking for information about the cotton version, check out our broadcloth cotton fabric guide instead.

Why is it Called Broadcloth?

The name “broadcloth” doesn’t come from its final width. Instead, it refers to the broad looms (wider than standard) used to weave it. Traditional broadcloth was woven about 1.75 yards wide, which was unusually wide for medieval looms. After fulling, it would shrink to a more manageable width while gaining that prized dense texture.

What is Another Name for Broadcloth Fabric?

Wool broadcloth has been called by several names throughout history. The French call it “drap,” while specific types have their own names. “Superfine broadcloth” refers to the highest quality made from merino wool. In historical contexts, you might also see “habit cloth” (used for women’s riding habits) or “lady’s cloth” (a lighter weight version).

The Rich History of Wool Broadcloth

Wool broadcloth has a story that spans nearly a thousand years. It started in 11th-century Flanders (now Belgium), where weavers developed the fulling technique that made this fabric special.

From Flanders to England

By the 1400s, Leiden in Holland became Europe’s broadcloth capital. They were the first to industrialize the process, breaking production into specialized stages rather than making everything in one workshop. This quality control made Leiden broadcloth so respected that in 1417, the Hanseatic League (a powerful trade alliance) decided only approved Leiden broadcloth could be sold through their network.

England caught on quickly. English broadcloth became famous for its quality, especially wool from two regions. The Worcester area used wool from the Welsh border counties of Herefordshire and Shropshire, known as Lemster wool (from Leominster). The West Country used Cotswolds wool. Both produced excellent broadcloth because, surprisingly, the sheep grazed on relatively poor pasture, which led to wool with just the right qualities.

The Peak and Decline

English broadcloth exports hit their peak in the mid-1500s. At this point, it was one of England’s most important exports. But the 1600s brought problems. Currency issues in Eastern Europe and a failed government scheme called the Cockayne Project hurt the trade. Worcester remained a center for white broadcloth production, but overall, the industry declined.

Broadcloth in Different Grades

Not all broadcloth was created equal. Historical records show various types:

• Superfine broadcloth: The best quality, made from fine merino wool. This was the go-to fabric for gentlemen’s coats in the 18th and 19th centuries.
• Fine broadcloth: Good quality for formal wear.
• Coarse broadcloth: More economical but still durable. Used by working-class people.
• Habit cloth: British-made fine wool broadcloth for women’s riding habits.
• Poole cloth: Named after the famous Henry Poole & Co tailoring house (founded 1806), this had an extra-clear finish.
• Taunton: Originally from Taunton, available in medium or coarse grades at 11 ounces per yard (this weight was actually set by law).

Native American Trade Cloth

Wool broadcloth also played an important role in North American history. It became known as “trade cloth” and was highly valued by Native American communities. Companies like those that reproduced Stroud cloth (from Stroud, England, made in the 1700s-1800s) continue to supply authentic wool broadcloth for Native American regalia and mountain man reenactments today.

How Wool Broadcloth is Made

The manufacturing process is what makes wool broadcloth special. It’s not just about weaving. The fulling process after weaving is where the magic happens.

Step 1: Fiber Selection

Traditional wool broadcloth starts with short staple wool that’s been carded (brushed to align fibers). This is different from worsted wool, which uses longer, combed fibers. The carded short staple wool is what allows the fabric to felt properly during fulling.

Step 2: Spinning and Weaving

The carded wool is spun into yarn, then woven on a broad loom in a plain weave pattern (the simplest over-under weave). The key: it’s woven 50-75% wider than the desired final width. A piece meant to finish at 1 yard wide might be woven at 1.5 to 1.75 yards wide.

Step 3: The Fulling Process

This is what makes broadcloth different from other wool fabrics. Fulling involves soaking the woven cloth in hot soapy water while subjecting it to mechanical action.

Traditionally, this was done with heavy wooden trip hammers that pounded the cloth, or workers would actually walk on the fabric in water. Today, mechanized fulling mills do this work, but the principle is the same. The hot water and agitation cause the wool fibers to shrink and felt together.

Step 4: Napping and Shearing

After fulling, the cloth may be brushed to raise a slight nap (fuzzy surface), then sheared to trim excess fibers and create a smooth finish. This gives broadcloth its characteristic smooth, almost velvety feel.

Step 5: Finishing Treatments

Final treatments might include additional processes to set the fabric’s dimensions and enhance its properties. Some broadcloth receives extra pressing to create a lustrous surface.

Characteristics and Properties

Now that you know how wool broadcloth is made, let’s talk about what makes it special to work with and wear.

Is Broadcloth Thick or Thin?

Wool broadcloth is typically medium to heavy weight. Most wool broadcloth falls in the 11-20 ounce per yard range. For context, lightweight wool might be 6-8 ounces, while heavy coating wool can be 20+ ounces. So broadcloth sits right in the middle to upper-middle range.

How Heavy is Broadcloth?

The weight depends on the grade. Coarse broadcloth might be 11 ounces per yard, fine broadcloth around 14-16 ounces, and superfine broadcloth can reach 18-20 ounces. Heavier doesn’t always mean better. The right weight depends on what you’re making.

Texture and Feel

Wool broadcloth has a dense, smooth texture with what textile people call a “velvety” feel. Because of the fulling process, you can’t see individual yarns on the surface. It feels substantial in your hand, with a firm hand (that’s textile talk for how it feels when you squeeze it).

Drape and Structure

The drape is on the stiffer side. This isn’t a flowing, drapey fabric. Instead, it holds its shape well, which is why it’s perfect for tailored garments. That stiff drape means your coat or jacket will maintain clean lines and structure.

Is Wool Broadcloth Warm?

Yes, wool broadcloth is warm. The dense, fulled structure traps air between fibers, providing excellent insulation. Combined with wool’s natural temperature-regulating properties, broadcloth keeps you warm in winter without overheating. The weather-resistant finish also blocks wind, adding to its warmth.

Weather Resistance

This is one of broadcloth’s biggest selling points. The dense, felted structure makes it highly water-resistant. It won’t be completely waterproof like modern technical fabrics, but it sheds light rain and blocks wind exceptionally well. This is why it was so popular for outdoor coats and military uniforms.

Durability

Wool broadcloth is incredibly hard-wearing. The tight structure resists abrasion, and the felted fibers don’t pull apart easily. A well-made broadcloth coat can last decades with proper care.

No-Fray Edges

Here’s a unique feature: you can cut wool broadcloth and the edges won’t fray. The dense, felted structure holds together even at a raw edge. This made it perfect for historical garments where hemming every edge wasn’t practical.

Is Broadcloth a Breathable Fabric?

Wool broadcloth is moderately breathable. It’s not as breathable as lighter-weight wools or open-weave fabrics, but it still allows some air circulation thanks to wool’s natural structure. The denser the broadcloth, the less breathable it becomes.

Does Broadcloth Wrinkle Easily?

No, wool broadcloth resists wrinkling quite well. Wool’s natural elasticity helps it bounce back from creasing. The dense, fulled structure also makes it harder for wrinkles to form in the first place. Hang up your broadcloth garment after wearing, and minor wrinkles will often fall out on their own.

Pilling Resistance

The tight, felted structure means wool broadcloth pills less than looser wool weaves. While no wool is completely pill-proof, broadcloth is among the more resistant types.

Types and Grades of Wool Broadcloth

Not all wool broadcloth is the same. Different grades serve different purposes and come at different price points.

Superfine Broadcloth

This is the top tier. Made from merino wool, superfine broadcloth was the fabric of choice for gentlemen’s tailoring in the 18th and 19th centuries. It has the smoothest finish, finest texture, and best drape (within the broadcloth category). Expect to pay premium prices for authentic superfine broadcloth.

Fine Broadcloth

A step down from superfine, fine broadcloth still offers excellent quality. It’s suitable for formal wear and tailored garments where you want that broadcloth look and feel without the superfine price tag.

Coarse Broadcloth

More economical but still durable. Coarse broadcloth has a slightly rougher texture and may use shorter or less fine wool fibers. It’s perfect for practical outdoor garments, historical reenactment costumes, and projects where durability matters more than a luxurious feel.

Worsted vs Woolen Broadcloth

This gets technical, but it’s worth understanding. Traditional broadcloth is made from woolen-spun yarn (carded short fibers that are fuzzy and jumbled). But some modern broadcloth uses worsted yarn (combed long fibers that are smooth and parallel).

Worsted broadcloth will have a smoother, harder finish and be less prone to felting further. Woolen broadcloth has a softer, more textured feel and that classic blind-face finish. If authenticity matters for historical projects, look for woolen-spun broadcloth.

Modern Variations

Today, you’ll find wool broadcloth in various weights and finishes. Some are specifically marketed for historical clothing, others for upholstery, and some for modern tailoring. Always check the weight and intended use before buying.

Wool Broadcloth vs Other Wool Fabrics

If you’re trying to choose between different wool fabrics, here’s how broadcloth stacks up against other common options.

Wool Broadcloth vs Wool Flannel

Wool flannel is softer and fuzzier than broadcloth. Flannel has a napped surface (brushed to raise fibers), while broadcloth has a smooth, dense surface. Flannel can be made with either woolen or worsted yarn and typically has a looser weave than broadcloth.

Flannel drapes more softly and feels cozier against the skin. Broadcloth is stiffer, more weather-resistant, and more structured. For suits and trousers, flannel is popular for its comfort, but it can develop a sheen (shine) with wear, especially around the seat. Broadcloth holds up better to repeated wear in high-friction areas.

Choose flannel for: Comfort, softer drape, casual tailored pieces
Choose broadcloth for: Structure, weather resistance, durability

Wool Broadcloth vs Wool Gabardine

Wool gabardine has a twill weave (you can see diagonal lines) and is typically made from worsted wool. It’s tightly woven and can be very durable, but it has a different character than broadcloth.

Gabardine is smoother and has a subtle sheen. It’s excellent for tailoring and takes a sharp crease well. However, gabardine can develop shiny spots with wear, especially in lighter colors. Broadcloth’s plain weave and blind-face finish is less prone to this.

Both are good for tailored garments, but gabardine drapes slightly better while broadcloth is more weather-resistant. Gabardine is more commonly found in modern suiting, while broadcloth is more of a specialty fabric.

Choose gabardine for: Modern suiting, sharp creases, smooth appearance
Choose broadcloth for: Historical accuracy, weather protection, traditional tailoring

Wool Broadcloth vs Wool Serge

Wool serge is another twill weave fabric, but unlike gabardine, the diagonal lines are visible on both sides of the fabric. Serge is typically made from worsted wool and has a smooth, somewhat silky texture.

Serge is excellent for coats and suits and has been used extensively in military uniforms. It’s durable and wears well. Compared to broadcloth, serge has a softer drape and is less stiff. Broadcloth is denser and more weather-resistant.

Choose serge for: Classic military style, good drape, all-purpose suiting
Choose broadcloth for: Maximum weather protection, stiffer structure, historical projects

Wool Broadcloth vs Melton

Melton wool is like broadcloth’s heavier cousin. It’s also heavily fulled, but melton is even denser and heavier. Traditional melton is so thick it’s almost felt-like.

Both fabrics can have cut edges without fraying. Both are weather-resistant. The difference is weight. Melton is typically used for heavy coats, while broadcloth can be used for everything from coats to suits to dresses depending on the weight.

Choose melton for: Heavy winter coats, maximum warmth
Choose broadcloth for: More versatility, lighter weight options

Wool Broadcloth vs Tweed

Tweed has a rough, textured surface with visible warp and weft yarns, often in multiple colors creating a mottled or heathered look. Tweed is typically woolen-spun and has been slightly felted, but nowhere near as much as broadcloth.

Tweed is stiffer and rougher than broadcloth. It’s very durable and weather-resistant, making it popular for outdoor sporting clothes. Broadcloth has a smoother, more refined finish. For formal wear, broadcloth wins. For country clothing and outdoor wear, tweed is traditional.

Choose tweed for: Outdoor wear, country style, texture and character
Choose broadcloth for: Formal wear, smooth finish, refined appearance

What Fabric is Similar to Broadcloth?

The closest match to wool broadcloth is melton wool, which shares the heavily fulled construction. Boiled wool also goes through a similar felting process, though it’s typically knitted rather than woven. For similar smooth, dense qualities in a different fiber, look at wool coating fabrics.

Uses and Applications

What is Broadcloth Fabric Used For?

Wool broadcloth has been used for centuries in many different ways. Here’s where you’ll see it today.

Historical Uses

Men’s Formal Tailoring: Superfine broadcloth was the premier choice for gentlemen’s coats and formalwear from the 1700s through the 1800s. The smooth finish and ability to hold crisp lines made it perfect for the structured styles of the era.

Women’s Riding Habits: Special fine broadcloth called “habit cloth” was made specifically for women’s riding clothes. It needed to be durable enough for outdoor activity but refined enough for proper fashion.

Military Uniforms: The weather resistance and durability made broadcloth perfect for military use. Many historical uniforms were made from broadcloth in various grades.

Native American Regalia: Trade cloth (wool broadcloth) became an important part of Native American traditional clothing and continues to be used for regalia today.

Modern Uses

Historical Reenactment: This is probably the biggest market for wool broadcloth today. Whether you’re recreating Tudor England, the American Revolution, or Civil War era, authentic broadcloth is often required for accuracy. It’s an important part of European folk costuming and historical clothing for film and theater as well.

Tailored Coats and Suits: Some tailors still use wool broadcloth for structured coats. The stiff drape and weather resistance make it excellent for outerwear. It’s less common in modern suiting but still valued by those who appreciate traditional fabrics.

Blazers and Jackets: Medium-weight broadcloth works well for structured blazers that need to hold their shape.

Upholstery: The durability and felted surface make wool broadcloth suitable for furniture upholstery. It’s been used to upholster everything from antique chairs to classic car interiors. The velvet-like feel adds a luxurious touch.

Crafts and Costumes: Beyond historical reenactment, wool broadcloth is used for theatrical costumes, living history programs, and historical craft projects.

What is Broadcloth Best For?

Wool broadcloth excels in applications where you need structure, weather resistance, and durability. It’s the best choice for:

• Period-accurate historical clothing from the 11th-19th centuries
• Structured outerwear that needs to hold its shape
• Garments that will see outdoor wear in cool, damp weather
• Projects where you want a no-fray cut edge
• Long-lasting pieces that will be worn hard and need to last

Can Broadcloth Be Used for Curtains?

Yes, wool broadcloth can be used for curtains, though it’s not a common choice today. The dense weave blocks light well and provides good insulation. The weight means curtains will hang straight with a structured drape. The main drawback is cost; wool broadcloth is more expensive than typical curtain fabrics. But if you’re going for a historical look or want extremely high-quality, insulating curtains, it’s an option.

Benefits of Wearing Broadcloth

When you choose wool broadcloth for your garments, here’s what you get:

• Weather protection: Water-resistant and windproof
• Warmth without bulk: Dense structure provides insulation
• Shape retention: Garments maintain their structure
• Durability: Will outlast many other fabrics
• No pilling: Stays looking good longer
• Wrinkle resistance: Less ironing needed
• Historical authenticity: Perfect for period clothing
• Unique texture: That smooth, velvety feel is distinctive

Sustainability and Environmental Impact

Let’s talk about the environmental side of wool broadcloth. Like all fabrics, it has both positive and negative impacts.

The Positive Side

Natural and Biodegradable: Wool is a natural protein fiber. When a wool broadcloth garment finally wears out, it will biodegrade in soil within years, not centuries like synthetic fabrics. It doesn’t contribute to microplastic pollution.

Renewable: Sheep grow new fleece every year. As long as sheep farming continues, wool production can continue.

Long Lifespan: A well-made broadcloth garment can last decades. This longevity means you’re buying fewer garments over time, reducing overall consumption.

Natural Properties Reduce Washing: Wool naturally resists odors and dirt. You can air out wool garments between wears rather than washing after every use. Less washing means less water and energy consumption over the garment’s life.

Temperature Regulation: Wool keeps you warm in winter and cool in summer. This natural climate control means less reliance on heating and air conditioning.

Recyclable: Wool can be mechanically recycled into new yarn. While recycled wool has shorter fibers and isn’t as strong, it’s still usable for many applications.

The Challenges

High Carbon Footprint: This is wool’s biggest environmental issue. Sheep produce methane during digestion, a greenhouse gas 28-34 times more potent than carbon dioxide. Studies show that producing a wool garment can generate 27 times more greenhouse gas emissions than a cotton one during the production phase.

Land Use: Sheep farming is land-intensive. In Australia (the world’s largest wool producer), sheep farming occupies about one-fifth of agricultural land. This can lead to habitat loss for native wildlife.

Water Consumption: Processing wool into fabric requires 200-300 kg of water per kg of fabric. That’s less than cotton but more than synthetic polyester.

Chemical Processing: The scouring (washing) process removes natural oils and dirt using surfactants. Dyeing and finishing add more chemicals. While hydrogen peroxide is a relatively eco-friendly bleaching agent, some processes use harsher chemicals that create polluting effluents.

Animal Welfare Concerns: Practices like mulesing (removing skin folds to prevent flystrike) are controversial. Tail docking and castration are often done without pain relief. These practices raise ethical questions about wool production.

Making Better Choices

If you want wool broadcloth but care about sustainability, here’s what to look for:

Also consider buying vintage or secondhand wool broadcloth garments. This gives existing items a longer life without creating demand for new production. You can find quality pieces from wool and cashmere retailers that carry both new and vintage options.

The Bottom Line on Sustainability

Wool broadcloth isn’t perfect environmentally. The high carbon footprint and land use are real concerns. But its durability, biodegradability, and potential for responsible production give it advantages over many alternatives. If you’re choosing between a synthetic fabric and certified sustainable wool broadcloth for a garment you’ll wear for decades, the wool might actually be the better environmental choice in the long run.

Luxury and Quality Focus

If you’re investing in wool broadcloth, you want to make sure you’re getting quality. Here’s how to tell good from great.

What Defines Premium Wool Broadcloth?

Fiber Source: The best broadcloth starts with high-quality wool. Merino is the gold standard, producing fine, soft fibers. Historical sources also prized specific regional wools like Cotswold or Lemster wool.

Consistent Weight: Quality broadcloth should have even weight throughout. Run your hand over it, and it should feel uniform without thick or thin spots.

Smooth, Even Finish: Look at the surface. Premium broadcloth should have that characteristic blind-face finish with no visible individual yarns. The surface should be smooth and even.

Good Hand Feel: This is subjective but important. Quality broadcloth should feel substantial but not stiff and board-like. It should have some flexibility while still holding its structure.

Color Depth: Well-dyed broadcloth will have rich, even color. Look for consistent color throughout without streaks or fading.

How to Identify Quality

Price as a Quality Indicator

Quality wool broadcloth isn’t cheap. Expect to pay significantly more than for standard wool suiting. Superfine broadcloth from heritage mills can cost upward of $40-60 per yard or more. Coarse broadcloth might start around $20-30 per yard.

Very low prices (under $15 per yard) might indicate a cotton blend marketed as broadcloth, or lower-quality wool that hasn’t been properly fulled. This doesn’t mean you can’t find deals, but be cautious of prices that seem too good to be true.

Heritage Producers

Some mills and companies have been producing quality wool broadcloth for generations. Names like Thomas Mason (British textiles), Hainsworth (Yorkshire mill), and specialized historical fabric suppliers like Burnley & Trowbridge are known for authentic, quality broadcloth.

For modern production, look for European mills. The UK and Italy still have mills producing quality wool fabrics with traditional techniques.

Care Instructions and Maintenance

Wool broadcloth is an investment, so you want to take care of it properly. The good news is that its natural properties make it relatively low-maintenance.

Does Broadcloth Shrink When Washed?

Yes, wool broadcloth can shrink if washed improperly. Remember, it’s already been shrunk significantly during the fulling process. But additional exposure to hot water, agitation, and temperature changes can cause further felting and shrinking.

This is why dry cleaning is the recommended care method for wool broadcloth garments.

Does Broadcloth Fabric Shrink?

To be clear: the fabric was intentionally shrunk during manufacturing. It won’t shrink from normal wear or proper care. But washing it in hot water or machine washing will cause it to felt further and shrink more. This shrinkage is not reversible.

General Care Guidelines

Dry Cleaning (Recommended): Professional dry cleaning is the safest option for wool broadcloth garments. The dry cleaning process won’t cause shrinking or additional felting. For tailored pieces with structure and lining, dry cleaning is really the only option.

Frequency: You don’t need to clean wool broadcloth after every wear. Wool naturally resists odors and dirt. Air out your garment between wears. Clean only when actually soiled or at the end of the season before storage.

If You Must Hand Wash

For unlined, simple pieces, you might choose to hand wash. This is risky, but here’s how to minimize damage:

1. Use cold water only: Never use warm or hot water
2. Choose wool-specific detergent: Regular detergent can be too harsh. Use a pH-neutral wool wash
3. Soak, don’t agitate: Fill a basin with cold water and detergent. Submerge the fabric and let it soak for 3-5 minutes. Gently squeeze (don’t wring) to work the detergent through
4. Rinse thoroughly: Rinse in cold water until all detergent is removed. Any temperature change between wash and rinse water can cause felting
5. Remove water gently: Never wring. Press water out gently, then roll in a towel to absorb more
6. Dry flat: Lay flat to dry on a clean towel or mesh drying rack. Never hang wet wool broadcloth, as the weight can stretch it

Spot Cleaning

For small stains, spot cleaning is your best bet:

• Act quickly: Fresh stains are easier to remove
• Blot, don’t rub: Use a clean cloth to blot liquid stains
• Use cold water: Dampen a cloth with cold water and gently work on the stain
• Try wool detergent: For tougher stains, use a tiny amount of wool-safe detergent with cold water
• Rinse the area: Use a damp cloth with clean cold water to remove any soap residue
• Air dry: Let the spot air dry naturally

Ironing and Pressing

Wool broadcloth can be ironed, but use caution:

• Use low to medium heat: Check your iron’s wool setting
• Always use a press cloth: Place a clean cotton cloth between the iron and the broadcloth. Direct contact can create shine or scorch marks
• Use steam: Steam helps relax the fibers. Either use your iron’s steam function or use a spray bottle to lightly dampen the press cloth
• Press, don’t slide: Lift and press the iron rather than sliding it, which can stretch the fabric

Storage

Clean before storing: Always clean garments before long-term storage. Moths and carpet beetles are attracted to body oils and food stains.

Fold, don’t hang: For long-term storage, fold wool broadcloth rather than hanging it. The weight can cause hanging garments to stretch over time.

Use cedar or lavender: Natural moth repellents like cedar blocks or lavender sachets are better than mothballs. Cedar has a fresh scent and is effective at deterring moths.

Store in a cool, dry place: Avoid damp basements or hot attics. A cool, dry closet is ideal.

Use breathable storage: Store in cotton garment bags or wrapped in cotton sheets. Avoid plastic bags, which can trap moisture and cause mildew.

Dealing with Shine

While wool broadcloth is less prone to developing shine than some wools, it can happen with repeated wear in high-friction areas. To minimize shine:

• Always use a press cloth when ironing
• Avoid over-pressing the same area
• Brush garments regularly with a soft clothes brush to lift the fibers
• If shine develops, try steaming the area and brushing gently while damp

What About Pills?

Wool broadcloth resists pilling better than many wool fabrics thanks to its dense structure. If you do get pills, remove them gently with a sweater comb or fabric shaver. Always comb in the direction of the fabric’s weave.

For more detailed wool care, check out our wool care guide.

Buying Guide

Ready to buy wool broadcloth? Here’s what you need to know.

Where to Buy Wool Broadcloth

Historical Reproduction Suppliers: These specialize in authentic period fabrics. Examples include Burnley & Trowbridge, Renaissance Fabrics, and The Tudor Tailor. They understand what historical reenactors need and often carry multiple weights and grades.

Specialty Fabric Stores: Some high-end fabric retailers carry wool broadcloth, though it’s not as common as it once was. Call ahead to check availability.

Online Fabric Retailers: Websites like Sartor Bohemia carry wool broadcloth, especially for sewing and costuming. Etsy also has suppliers selling wool broadcloth, both yardage and finished garments.

Direct from Mills: Some mills that produce wool broadcloth sell directly to customers. Yorkshire mills in the UK sometimes offer this option.

International Sources: European suppliers often have authentic wool broadcloth. Be aware of shipping costs and potential customs fees.

What to Look For When Buying

Weight: Check the ounces per yard or grams per square meter. Lighter (11-14 oz) works for dresses and lighter garments. Medium (14-18 oz) is good for suits and structured clothing. Heavy (18-20+ oz) is for coats and outerwear.

Fiber Content: Look for 100% wool for traditional broadcloth. Some suppliers offer blends with nylon for durability (common in upholstery-weight broadcloth). Blends work fine but aren’t historically accurate.

Width: Most wool broadcloth is 54-60 inches wide. Verify the width before calculating yardage needs.

Intended Use: Some broadcloth is specifically marketed for historical clothing, others for upholstery. Make sure you’re getting the right type for your project.

Color Options: Historical suppliers often carry period-appropriate colors. If you’re not bound by historical accuracy, you might find more colors from general fabric retailers.

Price Ranges to Expect

• Budget/Coarse broadcloth: $20-30 per yard
• Mid-range/Fine broadcloth: $30-45 per yard
• Premium/Superfine broadcloth: $45-70+ per yard
• Upholstery weight: Varies widely, $25-50 per yard typical

These are rough estimates. Prices vary based on supplier, current wool prices, and whether it’s domestic or imported.

Calculating Yardage

How much do you need? It depends on your project:

• Simple coat or jacket: 2-3 yards
• Structured coat with lining: 3-4 yards
• Long coat or cloak: 4-6 yards
• Vest or waistcoat: 1-1.5 yards
• Dress or skirt: 2-4 yards depending on style

Always buy a bit extra. If you’re making a historical garment from a pattern, the pattern will tell you how much you need. Add 1/2 yard extra for errors and testing.

Sample Swatches

Many suppliers offer sample swatches for a small fee. This is worth it for expensive fabric. You can see the actual color, feel the weight, and test how it behaves before committing to several yards.

Questions to Ask Suppliers

• What is the exact weight in ounces per yard?
• Is this 100% wool or a blend?
• What is the finished width after fulling?
• Is this woolen-spun or worsted?
• Is this suitable for garment making or is it upholstery weight?
• Do you offer samples?
• What are the care requirements?

Working with Wool Broadcloth

Is Broadcloth Easy to Sew With?

Wool broadcloth is generally easier to sew than many other fabrics. The dense, stable structure means it doesn’t shift or slide around while you’re working with it. The edges don’t fray, so you don’t have to rush to finish seams. And it holds a crisp edge when pressed, making construction easier.

That said, the weight and stiffness can make some tasks trickier. Turning tight corners or creating gathers is harder with a stiffer fabric. And you’ll need appropriate needles and techniques for the weight.

Preparing to Sew

Pre-washing? Generally, no. Wool broadcloth has already been shrunk during fulling. Washing before sewing could cause additional shrinkage and might not be even. If you’re concerned about shrinkage, test a small piece first.

Straightening the grain: If your broadcloth is off-grain, you can gently steam and reshape it. But the fulled nature means it won’t shift as much as looser weaves.

Cutting

Tools: Use sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter. Broadcloth is dense, so dull blades will make ragged cuts.

Technique: Cut through a single layer when possible for the most accurate cuts. Use weights rather than pins to hold your pattern in place (pins can leave marks).

No need to finish edges immediately: Since broadcloth doesn’t fray, you don’t have to finish seam allowances right away. This gives you flexibility during construction.

Machine Settings

Needle: Use a Universal or Sharp needle in size 80/12 or 90/14, depending on the broadcloth weight. Heavier broadcloth needs the larger needle.

Stitch length: Use a slightly longer stitch length (2.5-3mm) to avoid puckering in the dense fabric.

Thread: All-purpose polyester thread works fine. For a traditional approach, use cotton or wool thread.

Presser foot pressure: You might need to adjust your presser foot pressure for even feeding. Test on scraps first.

Pressing

Pressing is super important when sewing wool broadcloth. Good pressing makes the difference between a homemade-looking garment and a professional one.

• Press each seam as you go, before crossing it with another seam
• Use a press cloth always
• Use plenty of steam
• Press, lift, move rather than sliding the iron
• Let fabric cool and dry completely before moving to the next step

Seam Finishes

Since broadcloth doesn’t fray, you have options:

• Left raw: For historical garments, you can leave seam allowances raw. The fabric won’t unravel.
• Flat-felled seams: Great for sturdy construction. Learn more about flat-felled seams.
• French seams: Enclose raw edges for a neat interior. See our French seam tutorial.
• Serged: Overlock for a quick, neat finish if you have a serger.
• Hong Kong finish: Bound edges look professional in unlined garments.

Interfacing

Wool broadcloth is already quite stable, so you might not need interfacing. For collars, cuffs, and buttonholes, use a lightweight fusible or sew-in interfacing appropriate for medium-weight wool.

Test fusible interfacing on a scrap first. The heat and steam needed to fuse can affect wool broadcloth.

Pattern Selection

Wool broadcloth works best with structured designs:

• Tailored coats and jackets
• Military-style uniforms
• Fitted vests and waistcoats
• Structured dresses with defined shapes
• Historical patterns calling for broadcloth

Avoid patterns with lots of gathers, draping, or soft, flowing lines. Broadcloth’s stiff drape won’t work well for these styles.

If you’re new to sewing, check out our beginner’s guide to sewing first.

References and Further Reading

This article draws on authoritative sources about wool broadcloth and wool textiles:

• Broadcloth – Wikipedia: Comprehensive historical and technical information about broadcloth fabric.
• Wool as a Sustainable Fibre – The Woolmark Company: Official information on wool sustainability, environmental impact, and industry certifications.
• Wool Sustainability – International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO): Global wool industry standards, research, and sustainability initiatives.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

Wool broadcloth has earned its place in textile history for good reasons. This dense, fulled fabric offers a combination of weather resistance, durability, and structure that few other fabrics can match. From its medieval origins in Flanders to modern historical reenactments and specialty tailoring, wool broadcloth continues to serve those who appreciate traditional craftsmanship and quality materials.

The manufacturing process – weaving wide then shrinking through fulling – creates that characteristic blind-face finish and no-fray edges that make broadcloth distinctive. While it’s not the most common fabric today, it remains the gold standard for period-accurate historical clothing and is valued by tailors who work with traditional techniques.

Key Takeaways

Making Your Decision

Should you use wool broadcloth for your next project? Consider these questions:

• Do you need the structure and weather resistance broadcloth provides?
• Is historical accuracy important for your project?
• Are you comfortable with the care requirements (dry cleaning)?
• Does your budget allow for this investment?
• Is your pattern appropriate for a stiff, structured fabric?

If you answered yes to most of these, wool broadcloth might be perfect for you. It’s a fabric that rewards patience and care with garments that can last a lifetime.

For other wool options, explore our guides on wool flannel, wool gabardine, or melton wool. Each has its own strengths for different applications.

Ready to Start?

If you’re ready to work with wool broadcloth, start by ordering sample swatches from a few suppliers. Feel the different weights and qualities in your hands. This will help you understand exactly what you’re getting and choose the right broadcloth for your specific needs.

Remember that working with quality traditional fabrics like wool broadcloth connects you to centuries of textile history. There’s something special about using the same fabric techniques that kept medieval Europeans warm and clothed generations of tailored gentlemen. In a world of synthetic fast fashion, wool broadcloth stands as a reminder that some things are worth doing the traditional way.

Whether you’re making a reproduction 18th-century coat, tailoring a structured blazer, upholstering a vintage chair, or creating Native American regalia, wool broadcloth brings authenticity, quality, and durability to your project. Take the time to source the right fabric, learn proper techniques, and care for your finished piece, and you’ll have something that lasts for years to come.