How to Sew a Hem: A Simple Guide for Perfect Garment Finishes

Master this essential tailoring technique with step-by-step instructions for clean, professional edges on all your handmade and altered garments

Have you ever struggled with uneven or messy fabric edges? Learning to sew a hem is one of the most useful skills for any sewing project. A hem is simply the bottom edge of fabric folded up toward the wrong side and stitched in place to create a clean, finished edge. Hemming properly gives your garments and home decor items a professional look while preventing fabric from fraying.

I’ve found that hemming doesn’t need to be complicated, even for beginners. The basic process involves measuring your desired length, folding the fabric edge, pressing it flat, and stitching along the fold. You can use either a sewing machine for quick results or hand sew for more delicate fabrics and invisible finishes.

What makes hemming so versatile is that you can adjust the technique based on your project needs. For casual items like kitchen towels, a simple folded edge works fine. For dress pants or skirts, you might want a blind hem stitch that’s nearly invisible from the outside.

Key Takeaways

• A well-sewn hem creates a professional finish by folding and stitching the fabric edge to prevent fraying.
• The basic hemming process requires measuring, folding, pressing, and stitching with either a machine or by hand.
• Different hemming techniques can be chosen based on fabric type and the desired appearance of your final project.

Materials and Tools Required

To sew a hem, you’ll need several basic tools and materials. I recommend gathering everything before you start your project.

Essential Tools:

• Sewing machine or serger
• Straight pins or sewing clips
• Iron and ironing board
• Measuring tape or ruler
• Fabric scissors
• Thread that matches your fabric

Optional but Helpful:

• Rolled hem foot (for certain hem types)
• Seam gauge
• Tailor’s chalk or fabric marker
• Pin cushion
• Thimble
• Seam ripper (for mistakes)

The most important item is quality thread that matches your fabric. Using the wrong thread can make your hem visible when it should blend in.

Your fabric type will determine which needle to use. Lightweight fabrics need smaller needles, while heavier fabrics require larger, stronger needles.

For pressing your hem, a good iron is crucial. Steam helps set the fold and makes sewing much easier.

If you’re hemming frequently, consider tools like a Clover Hot Hemmer or making a cardboard template to mark consistent hem depths.

Beginners might also benefit from hem tape or ribbon for added stability on tricky fabrics.

Preparing the Hem

Before sewing your hem, proper preparation is essential for achieving a clean, professional finish. Taking time to carefully measure, cut, and press will make the actual sewing much easier and result in a better-looking garment.

Measuring and Marking the Hem

I always start by trying on the garment or placing the fabric item on its intended surface. For clothing, I mark the desired length while wearing the item. I use pins or tailor’s chalk to mark the hem line, placing marks every few inches around the bottom edge.

For a straight hem, I measure from the floor up using a ruler or measuring tape. This ensures an even hem all around. For curved hems, I might use a hem gauge to maintain consistent depth.

I add seam allowance to my measurements—typically 1/4 to 1 inch depending on the fabric type and desired finish. Heavier fabrics usually need deeper hems for proper weight and drape.

Cutting the Fabric to Size

Once I’ve marked my hem line plus seam allowance, I carefully cut away excess fabric. I use sharp fabric scissors for a clean edge, cutting slowly to maintain accuracy.

For delicate fabrics, I place tissue paper underneath before cutting to prevent stretching or distortion. This helps maintain the fabric’s shape and prevents fraying.

I cut along my marked line, maintaining a consistent distance from the edge. If I’m working with a pattern, I follow the recommended seam allowance precisely. For curved hems, I make small notches in the seam allowance to help the fabric lay flat when folded.

Pressing the Hem

Pressing is crucial for a professional-looking hem. I start by folding the raw edge up 1/4 inch toward the wrong side of the fabric and press with a hot iron. This initial fold helps prevent fraying.

Next, I fold the hem up again to the full hem allowance and press firmly. For thick fabrics, I might use a clapper (wooden pressing tool) to set the crease more effectively.

I use pins to hold the pressed hem in place, inserting them perpendicular to the edge. For curved areas, I may need to make small pleats or gathers to accommodate the shape. I always press before sewing—this creates a crisp edge and makes the actual stitching much easier.

Sewing Techniques for Hems

Hemming is a crucial skill that gives your garments a professional finish. There are several methods to create clean, durable hems depending on your fabric type and the look you want to achieve.

Machine Stitching a Hem

Machine stitching is my go-to method for most hems because it’s quick and durable. To start, I fold the fabric to my desired hem allowance (usually 1/2 to 1 inch), press it with an iron, and then fold it once more to hide the raw edge.

When using a sewing machine, I position the fabric with the folded edge to the left of the presser foot. Instead of watching the needle, I focus on aligning the fabric edge with the guide marks on my machine’s plate – typically the 1/4″ or 5/8″ mark.

For a clean finish, I select a stitch length between 2.0-2.5 mm. Longer stitches might catch and tear, while shorter ones can pucker the fabric.

Pro tip: Use a hem gauge tool to measure consistent hem depths as you pin or press.

Hand Sewing a Hem

Hand sewing creates nearly invisible hems perfect for delicate fabrics or formal garments. The two most common hand stitches I use are:

1. Slipstitch – Catches just a thread or two of the main fabric for an invisible finish
2. Catchstitch – Creates a flexible hem ideal for skirts or dresses

To hand sew a hem, I first press it in place. Then I thread a needle with matching thread and knot the end. Working from right to left, I pick up just a few threads from the main fabric, then take a small stitch through the folded edge.

Hand hemming takes more time but offers precise control. I always keep my stitches loose enough to allow some fabric movement, especially for garments that need to stretch when worn.

Creating Rolled Hems

Rolled hems work beautifully on lightweight fabrics like chiffon, silk, or fine cotton. They create a tiny, delicate edge that doesn’t add bulk.

The most efficient way to create a rolled hem is with a specialized rolled hem foot on your sewing machine. This attachment curls the fabric edge before stitching it in place.

To use a rolled hem foot:

1. Trim the fabric edge cleanly
2. Fold and press about 1/8″ of the edge
3. Insert this folded section into the scroll of the foot
4. Sew slowly, guiding the fabric into the curl of the foot

For fabrics that fray easily, I apply a tiny amount of fray check to the raw edge before rolling. This strengthens the hem without adding stiffness.

Using a Serger for a Professional Finish

A serger creates clean, professional hems in one easy step. It trims, finishes, and secures the edge all at once.

For a basic serged hem, I:

1. Set my serger for a 3-thread narrow overlock
2. Fold and press my hem allowance
3. Serge along the raw edge
4. Press the serged edge up and topstitch from the right side

For a truly professional look, I use a coverstitch feature if my serger has one. This creates parallel rows of straight stitches on the right side with neatly interlocked threads underneath.

Serged hems work especially well on knit fabrics where you need stretch. The threads form a chain that moves with the fabric rather than breaking when stretched.

Finishing Touches

After completing the basic hemming process, proper finishing is what separates amateur work from professional-looking results. The final steps ensure your hem stays secure, looks neat, and lays flat against the fabric.

Securing the Hem

I always double-check that my hem is properly secured by examining my stitches. For machine-sewn hems, I make sure the tension is balanced with no loose threads or puckering. If I’ve used a zigzag stitch, I verify that both sides of the stitch catch the fabric properly.

For hand-sewn hems, I add a few small knots at intervals along the hem to prevent unraveling. I place these knots about every 4-6 inches.

When working with delicate fabrics, I sometimes add a few straight pins temporarily and try on the garment to check movement and drape before making the stitches permanent.

For extra security on heavyweight fabrics, I might use a second row of stitching about 1/8 inch from the first one.

Inspecting and Correcting the Hem

I always inspect my work before considering it complete. I look for these common issues:

• Uneven hem depth: I measure at multiple points to ensure consistency
• Puckering: This indicates tension problems that need adjusting
• Visible stitches on the right side: I check if blind stitches are truly hidden
• Bunching at curves: I make small clips if needed to help the hem lay flat

If I spot uneven sections, I carefully rip out just those portions and redo them. For minor waviness, I sometimes dampen the fabric slightly before pressing.

When inspecting curved hems, I gently stretch the fabric to make sure it will hang properly when worn.

Pressing the Finished Hem

The final press is crucial for a professional look. I set my iron to the appropriate temperature for my fabric type. Pressing, not ironing, is the key—I apply downward pressure rather than sliding the iron.

I press from the wrong side first to set the stitches, then carefully press the right side. For delicate fabrics, I use a pressing cloth to prevent shine or damage.

When pressing thick fabrics, I use a tailor’s ham or rolled-up towel to get inside curved areas. This helps the hem conform to the shape of the garment.

For fabrics that tend to show press marks, I use steam and hover the iron slightly above the fabric. A light touch gives the best results.

Additional Tips and Techniques

I’ve found that pressing your hem before sewing makes a huge difference. This simple step helps the fabric lay better and makes it easier to work with overall.

When choosing thread color, try to match your fabric as closely as possible. This helps make your stitches less visible, especially on the right side of your garment.

For raw edges, you have several options. You can turn them under twice, use a zigzag stitch, or apply seam binding. These methods prevent fraying and give your project a professional finish.

Hem allowance is important to consider before cutting your fabric. I typically use 1-2 inches for pants and skirts, but only ½ inch for sleeves and necklines.

Basting stitches are your friend! I like to add a temporary basting stitch at my desired hem length as a guideline before making the permanent hem.

A rolled hem foot is a fantastic tool for creating narrow, professional-looking hems. It works by folding the fabric twice while you sew, enclosing the raw edge completely.

For curved hems, I recommend using a narrow hem. The turn-up-turn-up method works well, especially on sleeves and circle skirts.

Remember to remove pins as you sew to avoid damaging your machine needle or creating small holes in your fabric.

Conclusion

Mastering the art of hemming is truly a game-changer for anyone interested in sewing, whether you’re a beginner or more experienced. A well-executed hem transforms homemade projects into professional-looking garments and home décor items, giving your creations that polished, finished appearance that makes all the difference.

As we’ve explored throughout this guide, hemming is a versatile skill with multiple approaches to suit different fabrics, garment types, and desired finishes. From quick machine-stitched hems for everyday items to delicate hand-sewn finishes for special fabrics, the technique you choose can be adapted to your specific project needs and skill level.

Remember that like any sewing skill, hemming improves with practice. Your first attempts might not be perfect, but each project will help you develop better technique. Taking time for proper preparation—measuring accurately, pressing crisp folds, and securing your work before stitching—lays the groundwork for successful results.

Don’t be afraid to experiment with different hemming methods as your confidence grows. The blind hem stitch, rolled hem, or serged edge each has its place in your sewing repertoire. Having these techniques at your disposal allows you to select the perfect finish for every project.

With patience and attention to detail, you’ll soon be creating hems that not only secure fabric edges but also enhance the overall look of your work. This fundamental sewing skill opens up countless possibilities for creating and altering clothing and home items that perfectly suit your needs and style preferences.

Frequently Asked Questions

Hemming can sometimes feel challenging for beginners, but with the right techniques and tools, you can achieve professional-looking results. Below are answers to common questions about different hemming methods for various garments.