The Complete Guide to Wool Coating Fabric

Everything You Need to Know About Choosing, Sewing, and Caring for This Luxury Outerwear Material

What is Wool Coating Fabric?

Wool coating fabric is a heavyweight wool fabric specifically designed for making outerwear like coats, jackets, and capes. Unlike lighter wool suiting fabric or dress-weight wools, coating fabrics are thick, dense, and built to handle cold weather while maintaining their structure and appearance over many years.

Think of wool coating as the workhorse of winter fabrics. It’s typically woven or felted to create a tight, sturdy material that ranges from 18 to 20 ounces per square yard (though you’ll find lighter and heavier options too). This weight gives it the body needed to create clean, tailored silhouettes in coats without needing lots of extra structure or interfacing.

What makes wool coating different from regular sheep wool fabric is the manufacturing process. Most coating fabrics go through a “fulling” or felting process where the woven fabric is washed, agitated, and sometimes pressed with heat. This shrinks the fibers together, creating that dense, weather-resistant surface that makes wool coats so practical.

Types of Wool Coating Fabric

Wool coating comes in several distinct varieties, each with its own texture, appearance, and best uses. Understanding these differences helps you pick the right fabric for your project.

Melton Wool

Melton wool is probably the most recognized coating fabric. It’s tightly woven in a twill pattern, then heavily fulled and brushed to create a smooth, felt-like surface where you can barely see the weave. The result is a thick, windproof fabric that’s perfect for peacoats and other structured outerwear.

This fabric has a military heritage and was traditionally used for British naval officers’ coats. Today, it’s available in weights ranging from medium (good for fall jackets) to heavy (perfect for harsh winters). Quality melton has a soft hand despite its thickness, and the best versions are made from 100% merino wool, though blends with polyester or nylon are common and more affordable.

Boiled Wool

Boiled wool starts as a knit fabric that’s then “boiled” (actually washed in hot water) and agitated until it shrinks and felts. This creates a very dense, water-resistant material with some natural stretch. Unlike melton, boiled wool begins as knit rather than woven, giving it a different feel and slightly more flexibility.

The texture tends to be slightly fuzzy or nubby, and it doesn’t fray when cut, making it easier to work with for beginners. It’s particularly good for jackets, cardigans, and relaxed coat styles where you want warmth without stiffness. Some people find it easier to sew than other coating fabrics because of that no-fray quality.

Felt

True wool felt is made by matting, condensing, and pressing wool fibers together without weaving or knitting. This creates a dense fabric that can be quite thick and looks the same on both sides. Industrial felt can be almost stiff, but fashion-weight felt softens beautifully with steam and handling.

Felt is excellent for structured coats and works particularly well for designs with clean, geometric lines. Since it doesn’t unravel, you can leave edges raw for a modern look. The thickness might seem intimidating at first, but it’s surprisingly easy to shape and sew.

Tweed

While not always in the heavy coating weight, wool tweed fabric comes in both lightweight and coating weights. Tweed is woven with colored yarns creating patterns like herringbone, houndstooth, or checks. It has a rougher, more textured surface than melton.

Coating-weight tweed is perfect for country-style coats and blazers. It’s durable, warm, and has timeless style. Harris Tweed, made in Scotland, is particularly prized for its quality and authenticity. Just note that tweed can be scratchy against skin, so plan to line your garments.

Double-Faced Wool

This is technically two layers of wool fabric that are woven or felted together, creating one thick piece with different colors or textures on each side. The beauty of double-faced wool is versatility – you can create reversible garments or use the contrast for design details like cuffs and collars.

It’s usually quite expensive because of the extra material and manufacturing complexity, but the results are stunning. Italian mills are particularly known for beautiful double-faced coating fabrics. Luxury wool and cashmere blends often come in double-faced versions for high-end outerwear.

Boucle

Boucle coating is woven with looped or curled yarns that create a bumpy, nubby texture. The name comes from the French word for “curled.” This fabric has a distinctive, luxurious look and is often used for designer-style jackets and coats.

Keep in mind that boucle needs to be lined and will fray when cut, so seam finishes matter. The loops can also catch in your sewing machine, so use a walking foot and test your stitches first. Despite these quirks, the visual impact of a boucle coat makes the extra effort worthwhile.

Wool Fiber Sources Compared

Not all wool comes from sheep. Several animals produce fibers that can be made into coating fabrics, each with different properties and price points.

Sheep Wool

Standard sheep’s wool is the most common and affordable option. Within sheep wool, merino wool stands out for its fine fibers and softness. Merino coating fabrics are less itchy and have a nicer hand (how the fabric feels) than regular sheep wool.

Sheep wool naturally repels water thanks to lanolin, the waxy coating on the fibers. It also has excellent temperature regulation properties – it keeps you warm when it’s cold but breathes when temperatures rise. This makes it perfect for coats worn in varying conditions.

Cashmere

Made from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats, this is one of the most luxurious coating options. Pure cashmere coating is incredibly soft, lightweight for its warmth, and drapes beautifully. It’s also expensive – expect to pay $50-$150+ per yard.

Cashmere coatings are often blended with regular wool to make them more affordable while still getting that soft, luxurious feel. An 80/20 or 70/30 wool-cashmere blend gives you much of the softness at a more reasonable price point.

Mohair

Mohair wool comes from Angora goats and has a distinctive fuzzy, slightly shiny appearance. It’s extremely durable – actually one of the most durable natural fibers – and takes dye beautifully, resulting in rich, saturated colors.

Mohair coating is warm and lightweight, making it good for coats that need to be both protective and easy to move in. It’s often blended with sheep wool for structure. The fuzzy texture can be polarizing, so it’s a good idea to touch a sample before buying.

Alpaca

Alpaca wool is softer than sheep wool and warmer than most other fibers because the hollow core of each fiber traps heat. It’s also naturally water-resistant and doesn’t contain lanolin, making it good for people with wool sensitivities.

Alpaca coating tends to have more drape than sheep wool melton, so it’s better for fluid, unstructured coat styles. Pure alpaca can be pricey, but it’s wonderfully warm even in lightweight fabrics.

Camel

Camel wool (actually hair, not wool) comes in natural tan to brown shades and is prized for its softness and warmth-to-weight ratio. It’s luxurious but more affordable than cashmere, making it a good middle-ground option.

Camel hair coatings often come in classic camel-colored tones that are perfect for traditional overcoats. The fiber is naturally water-repellent and very resilient.

Properties and Characteristics

Understanding what makes wool coating special helps you appreciate why it’s been the go-to material for quality outerwear for centuries.

Weight and Structure

Coating fabric is defined by its weight. Most true coating fabrics range from 14 to 22 ounces per square yard. For reference:

The weight affects more than warmth – heavier fabrics hold their shape better and create crisp, structured silhouettes. Lighter weights have more drape and work better for fluid, relaxed styles.

Insulation and Warmth

Wool’s warmth comes from the natural crimp in the fibers, which creates tiny air pockets throughout the fabric. These pockets trap body heat while still allowing moisture to escape. This is why wool coats keep you warm even when slightly damp, unlike many synthetic materials.

The crimped structure also makes wool naturally elastic and resistant to wrinkles. A quality wool coat will maintain its shape through years of wear and can be steamed back to perfect condition even after being crushed in storage.

Water and Wind Resistance

Wool fibers have a natural water-repellent coating called lanolin. This means light rain or snow will bead up and roll off rather than soaking in immediately. Coating fabrics, especially melton and boiled wool, have been processed to maximize this natural water resistance.

The tight weave or felted surface also blocks wind effectively. This combination of water and wind resistance makes wool coating practical for real winter weather, not just indoor-outdoor transitions.

Breathability

Unlike synthetic insulators, wool breathes. The fibers can absorb up to 30% of their weight in moisture without feeling wet. This means a wool coat won’t leave you feeling clammy if you’re active or if temperatures fluctuate.

This breathability is one reason why wool fabric has remained popular despite advances in synthetic materials. Natural temperature regulation is hard to replicate artificially.

Durability and Longevity

Quality wool coating is an investment because it lasts. With proper care, a well-made wool coat can easily last 20-30 years or more. The fibers are naturally strong and elastic, resisting tearing and abrasion.

Wool also resists odors better than most fabrics. The fibers have natural antimicrobial properties, so wool coats need cleaning far less often than comparable garments in other materials.

Complete Sewing Guide

Working with wool coating is actually easier than many people think. Here’s everything you need to know to sew a professional-looking coat.

Pre-Treatment

Before cutting into your expensive fabric, you need to pre-shrink it. Some wool coating will shrink when exposed to steam during the sewing and pressing process, so it’s better to deal with this before construction.

The easiest method is to hover a steam iron above the fabric (not touching it) and let the steam penetrate the fibers. Move slowly across the entire yardage. Alternatively, you can have the fabric professionally “sponged” at a dry cleaner, or hang it in a steamy bathroom for a few hours.

For a comprehensive guide on fabric preparation, check out our guide to fabric cutting which covers layout and pre-treatment for various fabric types.

Tools and Supplies

You’ll need:

• Sharp rotary cutter or shears – Dull blades will drag and distort thick fabric
• Heavy-duty needles – Size 16/100 or 18/110 for universal needles, or special leather needles for very heavy coating
• Walking foot – This helps feed thick layers evenly through your machine
• Quality thread – Use polyester all-purpose thread or special topstitching thread for thick fabrics
• Pressing cloth – Always use one to protect the wool’s surface
• Interfacing – Even thick coating needs interfacing in key areas

If you’re new to sewing, our essential sewing supplies for beginners guide covers the basics you’ll need to get started.

Interfacing Strategy

Even though coating fabric has body, you still need interfacing in areas that will get stress or need to hold their shape. Focus on:

• Front facings and button bands
• Collar and collar stand
• Shoulder seams (extending into the armhole area)
• Pocket openings
• Hem if you want a crisp edge

Use a quality woven fusible interfacing rather than nonwoven. Test it on a scrap first to make sure it bonds well and doesn’t change the drape of your fabric.

Cutting Tips

Lay your fabric completely flat – thick coating won’t behave if you try to fold it. Use pattern weights instead of pins if possible, as pins can leave permanent marks in dense fabrics.

Pay attention to nap direction. Even if your fabric doesn’t have obvious texture, many coating fabrics have a subtle nap that affects how light reflects off the surface. Cut all pieces in the same direction.

Seam Techniques

The bulk of wool coating means you need to think about seam finishes differently:

• Grade your seams – Trim each layer to a different width (outer layer widest, inner layer narrowest) to reduce bulk
• Press as you go – Use a pressing cloth and lots of steam. Press seams open whenever possible
• Consider bound seams – Hong Kong seams or bias binding look professional and handle bulk well
• Try flat-felled seams – These work well on unlined coats and are very durable

For detailed seam finishing techniques, see our guide on bound seam finishing and flat-fell seams.

Topstitching

Because the fabric is thick, topstitching stitches tend to sink in and become less visible. This is actually good news if your stitching isn’t perfectly straight! If you want more visible topstitching, use a longer stitch length (3.5-4mm) and consider using topstitching thread.

Buttonholes

Buttonholes in thick fabric can be challenging. Use a buttonhole cutter rather than scissors, and interface the area well. Test your machine’s buttonhole stitch on scrap fabric first. For very thick coating, consider bound buttonholes – they look professional and work better than machine stitches.

Lining Selection

Choose a quality lining that will last as long as the coat itself. Good options include:

• Silk crepe de chine or Bemberg (rayon) – Luxurious and breathable
• Silk or rayon charmeuse – Smooth and elegant
• Kasha lining – Flannel-backed satin that adds extra warmth

Avoid cheap acetate linings – they shred quickly and make your beautiful coat feel cheap. The lining is what touches your clothes most often, so it’s worth spending a bit more here.

Care and Maintenance

Proper care will keep your wool coating looking great for decades. The good news is that wool doesn’t need frequent cleaning.

Regular Maintenance

After wearing your wool coat:

• Brush it – Use a garment brush to remove surface dirt and lint. This also helps restore the nap
• Air it out – Hang the coat in fresh air for a few hours. Wool naturally releases odors
• Spot clean – Deal with small stains immediately using a damp cloth
• Hang properly – Use a sturdy, shaped hanger that supports the shoulders

Cleaning Methods

Most wool coating should be dry cleaned. The professional process preserves the fabric’s structure and prevents shrinking. Plan to dry clean your coat once or twice per season, or whenever it looks dingy.

If you want to try home cleaning (and your fabric’s care label allows it):

• Use cold water only
• Choose a detergent specifically made for wool (regular detergent can damage the fibers)
• Hand wash gently – don’t agitate or wring the fabric
• Roll in towels to remove excess water
• Lay flat to dry, reshaping the garment as it dries
• Never hang wet wool – the weight will distort the shape

For detailed instructions on caring for wool garments, see our wool care guide.

Storage

Store wool coats properly during warm months:

• Clean first – Never store dirty wool. Moths and carpet beetles are attracted to food stains and body oils
• Use cedar – Cedar chests or blocks help repel moths naturally
• Consider garment bags – Breathable cotton bags protect from dust while allowing air circulation
• Avoid plastic – Plastic traps moisture and can cause mildew
• Add moth deterrents – Cedar, lavender, or commercial moth repellents in storage areas

Dealing with Common Issues

Pills: Remove them with a sweater shaver or sharp scissors. Pills are caused by friction and are normal on areas like underarms.

Wrinkles: Hang in a steamy bathroom or use a steamer. Never let a hot iron touch wool directly – always use a pressing cloth.

Moth holes: Small holes can be invisibly mended by a skilled tailor. Prevent future damage with proper storage.

Shiny spots: These come from pressing too hard or without a press cloth. Steam them out by holding a steamer or iron above (not touching) the fabric.

Sustainability Considerations

Wool coating’s environmental impact is complex. There are both benefits and concerns to consider.

Environmental Benefits

Wool is a renewable resource. Sheep regrow their fleece annually, making it a sustainable fiber in that sense. The fiber is also biodegradable – unlike synthetic materials, wool will break down naturally at the end of its life instead of persisting in landfills for centuries.

Wool doesn’t contribute to microplastic pollution. When synthetic fabrics are washed, they shed tiny plastic fibers that end up in waterways and eventually the ocean. Wool may shed some fibers, but these break down naturally and don’t harm ecosystems. According to research from The Woolmark Company, wool biodegrades in both land and marine environments.

Quality wool coats last for decades, making them a “buy less, buy better” option that aligns with slow fashion principles. The durability means less frequent replacement, reducing overall consumption.

Environmental Concerns

Wool production does have environmental costs. According to studies, sheep farming contributes to greenhouse gas emissions, particularly methane from the animals’ digestive processes. Research cited by Carbonfact indicates that the animal fiber industry produces around 35 million tonnes of CO2e annually, with sheep wool contributing nearly 98% of this total.

Land use is another concern. Large flocks require significant grazing land, which can lead to overgrazing and soil degradation if not properly managed. Water pollution from wool processing is also an issue – the scouring (cleaning) process and dyeing both require chemicals and large amounts of water.

Ethical Considerations

Animal welfare is a major concern in wool production. Practices like mulesing (removing strips of skin to prevent flystrike) are painful for sheep and widely criticized by animal welfare organizations. Some regions have banned mulesing, but it remains common in major wool-producing countries like Australia.

Shearing itself can be stressful for sheep, especially when done rapidly for productivity. Undercover investigations have documented rough handling and injuries during shearing at some facilities.

Making Better Choices

If sustainability matters to you, look for:

• Certified organic wool – Better animal welfare standards and no chemical treatments
• Recycled wool – Made from pre-consumer or post-consumer wool waste
• ZQ or Responsible Wool Standard certifications – Third-party verified ethical and environmental practices
• Local or regional wool – Reduces transportation impact
• Deadstock fabrics – Leftover designer or mill ends prevent waste

Buying quality coating fabric and making coats that last is itself a sustainable choice. A coat that lasts 20+ years has far less environmental impact per wear than fast fashion alternatives that last a few seasons.

Quality Assessment Guide

Knowing how to spot quality wool coating helps you make smart purchases and avoid wasting money on subpar fabric.

Hand and Drape

Pick up the fabric and feel it. Quality coating should feel substantial but not stiff. It should have a pleasant hand – soft enough to be comfortable but firm enough to hold shape. Cheaper coatings often feel harsh or papery.

Check the drape by letting a length of fabric fall. It should hang smoothly without excessive stiffness. Very stiff fabric may be heavily sized (treated with chemicals), which will wash out and leave you with a different fabric than what you bought.

Weave and Surface

Examine the surface closely. For melton and felt, the weave should be barely visible or completely hidden. For tweed, the weave should be even and tight. Gaps or inconsistencies in the weave suggest lower quality that won’t hold up as well.

Check both sides of the fabric. Quality coating is carefully finished on both faces, even if one side is prettier. The back shouldn’t be fuzzy or poorly processed.

Fiber Content

Read the label carefully. While 100% wool is generally best, good quality wool blends exist:

• 80% wool / 20% nylon – Adds strength and durability, good for hard-wearing coats
• 70% wool / 30% polyester – More affordable, more wrinkle-resistant, slightly less breathable
• 90% wool / 10% cashmere – Adds softness while keeping the price reasonable

Be wary of fabrics that are more synthetic than wool (like 60% polyester / 40% wool). These won’t have wool’s natural properties and are often trying to cut costs rather than improve performance.

Price Points

Understanding typical price ranges helps you spot deals and avoid overpriced mediocre fabric:

• Budget ($15-$30/yard): Usually blends, may be thinner or lower quality wool. Can still make nice coats for less critical uses
• Mid-range ($30-$60/yard): Good quality pure wool or quality blends. This is the sweet spot for most home sewers
• High-end ($60-$100/yard): Premium wools like Italian melton, luxury blends with cashmere, designer deadstock
• Luxury ($100+/yard): Rare fibers like vicuña, highest-end Italian mills, exceptional double-faced fabrics

Country of Origin

Where fabric is made often indicates quality:

• Italy: Known for beautiful colors, excellent finishing, luxury blends. Often the most expensive but worth it for special projects
• United Kingdom: Traditional coatings, especially tweeds. Harris Tweed is always from Scotland and meets strict standards
• United States: Pendleton and other mills make quality coating, often at good price points

Fabric Comparisons

Understanding how wool coating compares to other options helps you make informed choices for your projects.

Wool Coating vs. Wool Suiting

Wool suiting fabric is lighter (usually 8-12 oz) and meant for tailored clothing worn indoors or in mild weather. It has more drape and less body than coating. While you could technically make a coat from suiting weight wool, it would be better for spring/fall jackets rather than true winter outerwear.

Coating fabric stands up on its own and holds sculptural shapes. Suiting needs more interfacing and structure to achieve the same effect. For cold-weather protection and long-lasting coats, coating is the better choice.

Wool Coating vs. Wool Flannel

Wool flannel is much softer and lighter than coating. It’s brushed to create a napped surface that’s cozy but doesn’t have the density or wind-blocking properties of coating fabric. Flannel is better for shirts, casual skirts, and lightweight jackets.

Wool vs. Synthetic Coating

Polyester coating fabrics exist and are much cheaper than wool. They can look similar at first glance but lack wool’s natural properties:

For more on this comparison, see our guide on natural vs synthetic fabrics.

Different Wool Types Compared

If you’re trying to decide between different luxury wool fibers for a special coat, here’s how they stack up:

Uses and Applications

Wool coating’s versatility makes it suitable for many garment types beyond the classic peacoat.

Classic Coat Styles

Peacoat: The traditional double-breasted navy coat, originally worn by sailors. Heavy melton wool is the authentic choice, creating that iconic structured look.

Duffle Coat: A casual, hooded coat with toggle closures. Works well with medium-weight melton or boiled wool. The hood makes it practical for wet weather.

Trench Coat: While traditionally made from gabardine cotton, wool coating trench coats are warmer and perfect for cold, damp climates. Use lighter-weight coating for the classic silhouette.

Car Coat: Hip-length with a boxy cut, originally designed for driving. Medium to heavy coating works well. The shorter length means you don’t need as much yardage.

Modern Interpretations

Wrap Coats: Unstructured, tied coats that show off coating’s drape. Boiled wool or lighter melton works beautifully. These are good beginner projects since there’s no complicated tailoring.

Cocoon Coats: Oversized, rounded silhouettes that envelop you. These need fabric with both body and drape. Try medium-weight coating or double-faced wool.

Capes and Ponchos: Wool coating is perfect for these because it holds shape while providing warmth. Felt especially works well since edges don’t need finishing.

Collarless Coats: Modern, minimalist designs that let quality fabric shine. Double-faced wool is particularly nice here since you see both sides at the lapel-less neckline.

Other Applications

Coating isn’t just for coats:

• Structured jackets: Blazers and bomber jackets in lighter-weight coating
• Vests: Layering pieces that add warmth without bulk
• Bags: Wool coating makes sturdy, attractive totes and messenger bags
• Home decor: Pillows, throws, even upholstery for accent pieces
• Craft projects: Felt coating is great for making slippers, toys, and ornaments

Historical Context

Understanding wool coating’s history helps explain why it remains valued today.

Military Origins

Melton wool was developed in Melton Mowbray, England, and became famous as the material for British military uniforms. The dense fabric protected soldiers from harsh weather while being durable enough for active duty. According to historical records, melton was used for naval officers’ uniforms and the iconic scarlet hunting coats of the upper class.

The peacoat, now a fashion staple, started as standard issue for sailors in the late 1800s. The double-breasted design could be worn either way depending on wind direction, and the heavy wool protected against North Atlantic weather.

Working Class Heritage

Melton cloth wasn’t just for the military and wealthy. In black, it was used for donkey jackets worn by laborers. The same properties that made it good for officers made it practical for dockworkers and construction workers.

This dual heritage – both luxury and workwear – continues today. You’ll find coating in high-end designer collections and practical workwear brands alike.

Evolution in Fashion

In the mid-20th century, wool coating became accessible to home sewers as sewing machines became common in households. Coat patterns from companies like Butterick and Simplicity democratized coat-making, and fabric stores began stocking quality coating for home use.

Today’s coating fabrics benefit from modern milling technology while maintaining traditional quality standards. Italian mills in particular have perfected the art of creating coating with beautiful colors and finishes while keeping the classic properties that make wool coating special.

Where to Buy Wool Coating Fabric

Finding quality coating takes some research, but good sources exist both online and in brick-and-mortar stores.

Online Retailers

Fabric Mart: Large selection of coating fabrics at reasonable prices, often designer overstock. They provide good descriptions and fabric content information.

Mood Fabrics: High-end selection with many Italian imports. More expensive but excellent quality. They ship swatches so you can feel fabric before buying.

B&J Fabrics: Well-curated selection of quality coating. Good for finding classic coating fabrics in standard colors.

Fabric.com: Wide range of price points and styles. Good for seeing what’s available, though quality varies.

EmmaOneSock (Etsy): Specializes in deadstock and vintage fabrics, including unique coating finds you won’t see elsewhere.

Physical Fabric Stores

If you’re lucky enough to have a good fabric store nearby:

• You can touch and see colors in person
• Staff can help with questions and recommendations
• You can buy exactly what you need without worrying about shipping costs

Look for stores that specialize in fashion fabrics rather than quilting stores, which rarely stock coating weight wools.

Buying Tips

• Order swatches first for expensive fabrics. Colors can look different on screens, and you need to feel the weight and drape
• Buy extra yardage – at least 1/4 yard more than your pattern requires. Coating can be hard to match later if you run short
• Check sales and deadstock – High-end coating often goes on sale at the end of coat season (late winter/early spring)
• Ask about minimum cuts – Some retailers have minimum purchase requirements for coating fabrics
• Look for mills and factory stores – If you’re near wool-producing regions, mill stores offer great prices on first-quality fabrics

How Much to Buy

Most coat patterns require 2.5 to 4 yards depending on the style, your size, and fabric width. Check your pattern’s yardage chart, then add a bit extra for insurance. It’s much easier to use leftover fabric for a matching scarf or bag than to scramble for more mid-project.

For lining, you’ll typically need the same yardage as your main fabric or slightly less. Don’t forget interfacing – plan for 1-2 yards depending on your coat design.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion