Printable Hem Measurement Guides
Download professional hemming reference guides for your sewing room
Professional Hem Allowance Chart
ClothingDigest.com – Your Complete Hemming Reference
| Garment Type | Recommended Allowance | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Dress Pants | 1.5″ – 2″ | Wider hems for better drape |
| Casual Pants | 1″ – 1.5″ | Standard width for everyday wear |
| Jeans | 1″ – 1.25″ | Maintain authentic look |
| A-Line Skirts | 1.5″ – 2″ | Moderate width for shape |
| Straight Skirts | 2″ – 3″ | Wider for professional look |
| Circle Skirts | 0.5″ – 1″ | Narrow to reduce bulk |
| Dresses (Casual) | 2″ – 3″ | Good weight and drape |
| Formal Dresses | 3″ – 4″ | Elegant, weighted hem |
| Sleeves | 0.5″ – 1″ | Narrow to avoid bulk |
| Curtains | 3″ – 6″ | Weight for proper hanging |
• Heavier fabrics generally need wider hems for proper drape
• Flared garments require narrower hems to reduce bulk
• Always consider the garment’s final use and formality level
• Add extra allowance if future alterations might be needed
Fabric Type & Technique Guide
ClothingDigest.com – Match Your Fabric to Perfect Technique
| Fabric Type | Best Technique | Alternative | Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton (Light) | Double-fold hem | Blind hem | Single fold (frays) |
| Cotton (Heavy) | Single-fold hem | Bound hem | Double fold (bulk) |
| Silk/Chiffon | Rolled hem | Hand slip stitch | Machine straight |
| Denim | Topstitched hem | Original preservation | Hand stitching |
| Jersey/Knits | Twin needle | Serged hem | Straight stitch |
| Wool | Catch stitch | Bound hem | Machine zigzag |
| Linen | Double-fold hem | Mitered corners | Rolled hem |
| Synthetic | Zigzag hem | Serged hem | High heat pressing |
• Always test pressing temperature on scraps first
• Pre-wash natural fibers to prevent shrinkage
• Use appropriate needles: Universal for wovens, Ballpoint for knits
• Match thread weight to fabric weight for best results
Hemming Troubleshooting Guide
ClothingDigest.com – Quick Solutions for Common Problems
| Problem | Likely Cause | Quick Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Puckering | Thread tension too tight | Loosen tension, use longer stitches |
| Uneven hem line | Inconsistent measuring | Use hem gauge, re-measure carefully |
| Visible stitches | Wrong thread color/technique | Use matching thread, try blind hem |
| Bulky corners | Too much fabric in seam | Grade seam allowances, miter corners |
| Hem won’t stay down | Insufficient pressing | Press thoroughly with steam |
| Stitches breaking | Wrong stitch for stretch fabric | Use zigzag or stretch stitch |
| Fabric fraying | Raw edge not finished | Zigzag edge before hemming |
| Wavy hem edge | Fabric stretched while sewing | Don’t pull fabric, let machine feed |
• Always press before AND after sewing
• Test settings on fabric scraps first
• Use appropriate needle for your fabric
• Take your time – rushing leads to mistakes
Measurement Templates & Rulers
ClothingDigest.com – Cut Out and Use These Templates
Hem Gauge Template (Cut out and use)
Cut along outer edge. Use to measure consistent hem depths.
| Seam Allowance | Common Uses | Measurement |
|---|---|---|
| ⅛ inch | Topstitching, edgestitching | 3mm |
| ¼ inch | Binding, narrow hems | 6mm |
| ⅜ inch | Facings, lightweight fabrics | 1cm |
| ½ inch | Standard hem fold | 1.3cm |
| ⅝ inch | Standard seam allowance | 1.5cm |
| 1 inch | Hem allowance, casing | 2.5cm |
• Print at 100% scale (no scaling/fitting)
• Cut out rulers and laminate for durability
• Keep multiple copies in your sewing kit
• Use cardstock for sturdier templates